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Guerlain each year releases an impressive number of fragrances, resulting in the need to edit the catalogue. "The Guerlain history is made up of almost 800 olfactive creations, but unfortunately it is impossible to keep them all," explains Guerlain's customer service department. Below, you'll find what has come, changed and disappeared at Guerlain since 2013, as well as a historic chart of reissues. The list is not comprehensive; for instance, it doesn't include discontinuations of Aqua Allegoria fragrances and limited editions.

2016
New fragrances
• Un Dimanche à la Campagne
• 4 Saisons: Le Printemps, L'Été, L'Automne, L'Hiver
• Néroli Outrenoir
• La Petite Robe Noire Intense
• L'Homme Idéal EdP
• Muguet (new version by Thierry Wasser)
• Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita
• Aqua Allegoria Rosa Pop
• Ambre Éternel

Reissues
• Habit Rouge Dress Code (new bottle design)
• L'Instant Magic EdP
• Aqua Allegoria Figue-Iris (reissued in an EdP version as Promenade des Anglais)
• Aqua Allegoria Jasminora (reissued as Le Bouquet de la Reine)
• Moscow (reissued as Le Bolshoï Prima Ballerina)

Discontinuations
• Habit Rouge Extrait
• Cologne du 68
• Oriental Brûlant
• Idylle Parfum
• La Petite Robe Noire Couture
• Arsène Lupin Dandy
• L'Âme d'un Héros
• Chamade EdP
• Mayotte
• Cherry Blossom
• Muguet (the Jean-Paul Guerlain version)

Other changes
• The quadrilobe bottle replaces the Parfum bottles for Samsara, Champs-Elysées, and L'Instant de Guerlain
• The "Habit Rouge" bottle replaces the bottles for Héritage, L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme, and Guerlain Homme
• The bee atomizer replaces the golden canisters
• New packaging design for all Exclusive lines
• Reformulation of Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue Parfum and EdP


2015
New fragrances
• Flacon Tortue
• Ne m'Oubliez Pas
• Habit Rouge Dress Code
• Le Bouquet de la Mariée
• Le Plus Beau Jour de ma Vie
• Mon Exclusif
• Shalimar Cologne
• L'Homme Idéal Cologne
• Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra
• La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche

Reissues
• Vetiver Pour Elle (reissued as Carmen Le Bolshoï)

Discontinuations
• Nahéma Parfum
• Myrrhe & Délires
• Eau de Shalimar
• L'Instant Magic EdP
• Habit Rouge Sport
• Idylle Eau Sublime
• Boisé Torride
• Insolence Parfum
• My Insolence


2014
New fragrances
• Le Bolshoï Black Swan
• Santal Royal
• French Kiss
• L'Homme Idéal
• Terracotta Le Parfum
• Eau de Cashmere
• Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde
• La Petite Robe Noire Couture
• Petit Guerlain (new version by Thierry Wasser)

Reissues
• Coque d'Or
• Attrape Cœur (reissued as Royal Extract)
• La Petite Robe Noire Modèle No.2 (reissued as Mademoiselle Guerlain)
• Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas (reissued as Idylle Love Blossom)

Discontinuations
• Shalimar Parfum Initial
• L'Instant Magic Parfum
• Guerlain Homme EdT
• Une Ville, Un Parfum: Moscow, New York, Tokyo, Shanghai, London
• Véga
• Sous le Vent


2013
New fragrances
• Le 68 Cologne Fond de Cuve
• Parfum du 68
• Extrait du 68
• Shalimar Ode à la Vanille Sur la Route du Mexique
• Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca
• Eau de Lingerie
• L'Heure de Nuit

Reissues
• Quand Vient la Pluie EdP (reissued as Place Rouge)
• Idylle Duet Jasmin-Lilas
• Aqua Allegoria Jasminora (reissued as Cour des Senteurs Versailles)

Other changes
• The bee atomizer replaces the Jardins de Bagatelle bottle



New format to old formulas
A little over a decade ago, when the demand for frequent new launches intensified, Guerlain began to occasionally reuse existing formulas for new perfume editions. To catch consumers' attention in today's enormous and overloaded market, Guerlain sees it necessary to perform at a speed of around twenty releases per year. Yes, twenty — that’s more than one every three weeks.

It seems evident that this pace would wear out even the most productive and creative perfumer (or perfumer team: Thierry Wasser is assisted by perfumers Delphine Jelk and Frédéric Sacone to create new scents) — at least when the end product must have the high quality that Guerlain wants as its hallmark ("Make good products, never compromise on quality," founder Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain admonished his successors). It's therefore no surprise that half of all Guerlain releases consist of reissues or special bottle editions, products that the marketing department can rejig without involving a perfumer.

The Guerlain archive contains an early example of a fragrance relaunched with a new name, namely Kriss (1942) which later appeared as Dawamesk. However, this practice was not very common in the Jacques Guerlain era; in his time, demand didn't exceed his capacity. The reason for renaming Kriss was that this perfume had an unfortunate association with the Nazis.

Sometimes, Guerlain fans are happy about a reissue, like when the rather costly limited edition Quand Vient l'Été (1998) became available the following year as the more affordable Voile d'Été in the Terracotta series. At others, fans are a little disappointed to find a once readily available fragrance relaunched and marketed as a whole new deluxe perfume, such as Le Bouquet de la Reine (which contains Aqua Allegoria Jasminora) and Carmen Le Bolshoï (formerly Vetiver Pour Elle).


Some images courtesy of guerlain.com


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