Thierry Wasser 2010
[kɔlɔɲ dy parfymœ:r]
Family: citrus, green, woody
Notes: bergamot, lemon, lavender, orange blossom, cut grass, galbanum, cedarwood, white musk
Period: The recapitulation years
At Guerlain, it's a family tradition that each perfumer has an Eau in his portfolio, a light unisex cologne made from citrus and herbs. The trend began with the founder's famous Eau de Cologne Impériale and continued with Aimé Guerlain's Eau de Cologne du Coq, Jacques Guerlain's Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat and Jean-Paul Guerlain's Eau de Guerlain. When Thierry Wasser became Guerlain's fifth master perfumer in 2008, it seemed natural that he should also put his signature on the line of Guerlain Eaux. Therefore, in 2010, he created Cologne du Parfumeur. He wanted a fragrance that married the classic cologne citrus accord with a very contemporary feel — the dry woody and aromatic notes he used in Guerlain Homme and the soft vegetal musk from Idylle.
The key note of his cologne, however, was an orange blossom he found in the Calabria region of Southern Italy, characterized by "an extreme gentleness and green, crunchy facets," as he explained. He reinforced the crunchiness with bergamot and lemon and the greenness with a note of freshly cut herbs and grasses. What made Cologne du Parfumeur stand out as a new kind of cologne was its base of cedarwood and airy, sweet musk, something not traditionally used in a citrus cologne, which gave Cologne du Parfumeur the tenacity and character of a fragrance of its own, a pale, downy, emerald kind of green scent reminiscent of old-fashioned soap bars. Consequently, Cologne du Parfumeur cannot be used to freshen up another perfume you're wearing, as is otherwise the standard way to use a Guerlain Eau.
Ever since Eau de Cologne Impériale, Guerlain's line of Eaux has been synonymous with the bee bottle. When Thierry Wasser's cologne was launched, Guerlain decided to modernize the design of all the Eaux labels, giving them simplified logos on a white background, while reinforcing their history by adding the creation dates and perfumers' names. (Of these, Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat got a whole new label design, using Guerlain's revived Sun King logo.) The white labels link to the fact that Guerlain used to refer to the Eaux as Eaux blanches — "white waters".
We love: the emerald greenness
A citrus cologne with added softness
An intimate woody fragrance
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