Thierry Wasser 2014
Family: fruity, powdery, gourmand
Notes: violet, rose, litchi, raspberry, white musk, ambrette, red fruits, orris, vanilla, tonka bean, heliotrope
Period: The recapitulation years
French Kiss collection
Following the success of the L'Art & la Matière series, in 2008 Guerlain presented Les Elixirs Charnels, an EdP collection inspired by the principal olfactive families: Oriental Brûlant, Chypre Fatal and Gourmand Coquin. Later came Boisé Torride and Floral Romantique. Emphasizing fruity-floral and gourmand notes, this collection offers sweet olfactory pleasures, "like invitations to feminine sensuousness," as Guerlain puts it. In 2014, the naming premise was broken with a new addition called French Kiss, worked around a lipstick note to highlight the 20th anniversary of the KissKiss lipsticks. Guerlain describes its new Elixir Charnel fragrance as a "glossy floral. Desirable, delicious, sexy."
It's not clear what Guerlain means by "glossy", but the fragrance sure is desirable and delicious. Sexy depending on taste. Pink like fruit candy, it mixes litchi, rose, raspberry, violet, vanilla, heliotrope, orris and white musk. The advertised lipstick note isn't very noticeable; if anything, it's more the notorious hairspray top note of Insolence EdT that we find. The rest smells like a variation on the successful La Petite Robe Noire, having black tea and patchouli replaced with the addictive marzipan-like scent of heliotrope. The result feels much like a sweet, powdery meringue, with all of L'Heure Bleue's deliciousness but none of the spicy dusk. It's a fruity-floral, yes, and Guerlain once again demonstrates its supreme mastery of the genre. A French kiss from perfumery's great confectioner: spray it on and you'll want to lick your skin.
Bottle. Les Elixirs Charnels reprise the deluxe L'Art & la Matière bottle, decorated with a silvery filigree metal plate. The filigree has been criticized as being too maudlin-looking and the square plastic cap too cheap for one of Guerlain's Exclusive Collections.
We love: Guerlain's mastery of the fruity-floral genre
To be enjoyed at home
Some images courtesy of guerlain.com
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