Thierry Wasser 2014
Family: fruity, powdery, gourmand
Notes: violet, rose, litchi, raspberry, white musk, ambrette, red fruits, orris, vanilla, tonka bean, heliotrope
Period: The recapitulation years
Following the success of the L'Art & la Matière series, in 2008 Guerlain presented Les Elixirs Charnels, a collection of EdP fragrances named after the principal olfactive families: Oriental Brûlant, Chypre Fatal and Gourmand Coquin. Later came Boisé Torride and Floral Romantique. Emphasizing fruity-floral and gourmand notes, this collection represents perfumery at its sweetest, "like invitations to feminine pleasure," as Guerlain puts it. In 2014, the naming premise was broken with a new addition called French Kiss, worked around a lipstick note to highlight the 20th anniversary of the KissKiss lipsticks. Guerlain described its new Elixir Charnel fragrance as a "glossy floral. Desirable, delicious, sexy."
It's not clear what Guerlain means by "glossy", but the fragrance sure was desirable and delicious. Sexy depending on taste. Pink like fruit candy, it mixed litchi, rose, raspberry, violet, vanilla, heliotrope, orris and white musk. The advertised lipstick note wasn't very noticeable; if anything, it was more the notorious hairspray top note of Insolence EdT that we found. The rest smelled like a variation on the successful La Petite Robe Noire, having black tea and patchouli replaced with the addictive marzipan-like scent of heliotrope. The result felt much like a sweet, powdery meringue, with all of L'Heure Bleue's deliciousness but none of the spicy dusk. It was a fruity-floral, yes, and Guerlain once again demonstrated its supreme mastery of the genre. A French kiss from perfumery's great confectioner: spray it on and you'll want to lick your skin.
Les Elixirs Charnels reprise the deluxe L'Art & la Matière bottle, decorated with a silvery filigree metal plate. The filigree has been criticized as being too maudlin-looking and the square plastic cap too cheap for one of Guerlain's Exclusive Collections.
We love: Guerlain's mastery of the fruity-floral genre
To be enjoyed at home
Some images courtesy of guerlain.com
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