Fruit, earth and marshmallow
Period: The orientalist years
Thierry Wasser and his assistant perfumer Frédéric Sacone have re-created an extensive list of historic Guerlain perfumes, using the exact same ingredients as when they saw the light for the first time.
Guerlinade, Jacques Guerlain's creation from 1924, was given the name of the formula that defines the whole Guerlain signature, the so-called Guerlinade. Jacques Guerlain was by all accounts the first to name this signature, but Thierry Wasser explains that the ground was laid for it with Aimé Guerlain's Jicky, back in 1889, with its mixture of bergamot, herbs, rose, jasmine, orris, amber and animal notes. In varying degrees and combinations, this basic blend is what connects any Guerlain perfume to all Guerlain perfumes, despite it being new or different. "In the same way that you recognize the origin of a great wine, or the composer of a symphony, you perceive the Guerlain stamp which persists even today," Jean-Paul Guerlain once said. Although the Guerlain style hasn't stopped developing since the time of Jacques Guerlain, revised as taste and technology evolve, first by Jean-Paul Guerlain and then by Thierry Wasser, many Guerlain fans consider L’Heure Bleue and Shalimar to be the most emblematic examples of what Guerlain smells like. We wonder, then, if the perfume called Guerlinade, long gone and forgotten, could be the ultimate, the ideal, the very truest scent of Guerlain.
Thierry Wasser’s re-creation of vintage Guerlinade first of all confirms that the Guerlinade fragrance of 1998, made by Jean-Paul Guerlain to commemorate the brand’s 170th anniversary, was a whole new formula and not a reissue of the historic perfume. Jean-Paul Guerlain's Guerlinade was a bright, romantic lilac fragrance which Jacques Guerlain's version was not.
Secondly, we easily identify the Jacques Guerlain fingerprint, notably his L’Heure Bleue one, that delicious, cocooning effect of sweet almonds and marshmallow, at once spicy-fresh and gourmand, with orange blossom, jasmine, rose, orris, vanilla, heliotrope and musk. Up top it appears lightly aldehydic, as does L’Heure Bleue, and down below the warm scent of tonka bean is prominent. So far, so good.
However, there's a distinct fruity side to Guerlinade, more specifically the peach note regularly used by Guerlain to add colour and glow (Mitsouko, Chant d'Arômes, Nahéma, Guet-Apens), but which was never mentioned as part of the Guerlain signature. Guerlinade also has an earthy-vegetal side, an aromatic, sage-like note together with patchouli and vetiver, that adds a certain damp darkness to the composition. Jacques Guerlain was known for not following formal olfactive classification, often mixing oriental, chypre, herbal and leather elements.
So, if Jacques Guerlain's Guerlinade is The Scent of Guerlain, then The Scent of Guerlain is fruit, earth and L'Heure Bleue mixed together. It smells wonderful, but still we think it doesn’t oust L’Heure Bleue and Shalimar from the Guerlinade throne. Read about Jean-Paul Guerlain's new Guerlinade
Guerlinade came in the so-called lyre bottle which was first made for Candide Effluve.
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