This website is about a man's admiration for the famous French
perfume house of Guerlain. Calling all honey bees and Guerlainophiles!
This website is about a man's admiration for the famous French perfume house of Guerlain. Calling all honey bees and Guerlainophiles!
Kid in a candy store
Once so proud of always being the first to innovate, Guerlain has surrendered to the insatiable taste for candy in perfumery. This summer, the brand releases its first cotton candy fragrance. See more
A new habit
Guerlain introduces a new look for its masculine line. See more
To bee, or not to bee
You have made me realize that my Facebook page has become the community I always wanted it to be, and your feedback has heartened and touched me profoundly. See more
The bird and the bee
Monsieur Guerlain wishes all of his readers a Happy Easter.
Perfume gets arty
Perfume brands work with artists to make a fragrance a collectors item that is anticipated by perfume aficionados and brand enthusiasts. This year, Guerlain has commissioned offbeat graffiti artist JonOne to add to the brand "an explosion of colours". See more
Guerlain discontinues Nahéma Parfum as of January 2016. Read about Nahéma
One last splash of Nahéma
Guerlain discontinues Nahéma Parfum as of January 2016. Read about Nahéma
I'm dreaming of a red Christmas
Monsieur Guerlain wishes all of his readers a cosy and fragrant Christmas holiday. Read about Habit Rouge
Danke, merci, thank you
A huge thank you to the thousands of Guerlainophiles who support Monsieur Guerlain's community page with likes, posts, shares and comments. Monsieur Guerlain on Facebook
One bottle, ten stories
In 1925, Paris was entranced by the exotic, the year Josephine Baker sailed from America to star in La Revue Nègre on the Champs-Elysées. Those were the colonial years. Shalimar's bottle turns ninety years old this year and tells us all the stories. Read more about Shalimar
Hooked on Habit Rouge
Guerlain launches its most addictive Habit Rouge since 1965. Habit Rouge Dress Code retains the original rose-leather accord, but infuses it with a tougher kind of leather together with spices and delicious praline. Read fragrance review of Habit Rouge Dress Code
53 scents, 135 years of Guerlain history
Thierry Wasser and his assistant perfumer Frédéric Sacone have re-created 53 historic Guerlain perfumes, covering 135 years of Guerlain history. Monsieur Guerlain was granted access to review the entire set of re-created perfumes. Read fragrance reviews
The Guerlain time machine
If only we could turn back time and browse the rue de la Paix shop, say hello to Aimé Guerlain and inhale all those odours that are now restricted by decrees and marketing. Thierry Wasser fulfills our wish and transports us back in time to discover 135 years of Guerlain perfume creations. Read fragrance reviews
Maison Guerlain’s vintage perfume workshop invites us to discover fifty re-created scents and smell the story of Pierre-François-Pascal, Aimé, Gabriel, Jacques, Pierre, Jean-Jacques and Jean-Paul. Read fragrance reviews
The metamorphosis of L’Homme Idéal into a Cologne seems to copy how La Petite Robe Noire became an Eau Fraîche: prolong the freshness, as if it were drinkable, remove the “black” molecules, and infuse it with a gourmand touch that triggers your brain’s reward system into wanting more of the stuff. Read fragrance review
Calling all honey bees!
Monsieur Guerlain would not have been the same without the invaluable input from other Guerlain lovers who comment or send messages. A huge thank you to the thousands of Guerlainophiles who support Monsieur Guerlain's community page with likes, posts, shares and comments. Read more about Monsieur Guerlain
One dress fits all
"Guerlain is to fragrance what the little black dress is to fashion. There's one for everyone,” says Guerlain. Originally intended as a limited release, in just three years La Petite Robe Noire has become Guerlain's new icon and best-selling fragrance, a franchise with endless creative and commercial potential. Read more about La Petite Robe Noire
Ten years with Mr. G and the bee
My editor, Linda Primeau (pictured to the right), recently reminded me that 2016 marks the tenth anniversary of Monsieur Guerlain, and suggested that I announce it publicly. I agreed, provided that she would be the author. I’m really quite phobic to self-celebration.
She says that I’m proof that the topics of Guerlain are inexhaustible, which exactly was my aim from the beginning. In 2006, facts about Guerlain, both past and present, were quite difficult to come by. Keeping track of the brand's twenty yearly fragrance releases, as well as the discontinuations, the design changes, and the reformulations, is no easy task either. But what particularly bothered me was that you couldn’t find any valid information about vintage Guerlain. Therefore, it has been a great pleasure for me to be able to write about Thierry Wasser’s project of re-creating 53 historic Guerlain perfumes.
I would like to use this opportunity to express a huge thanks to Linda, who is the quality controller of everything I post, and to all of you for your invaluable contributions to this site. Read Linda Primeau's offering
Perfume as politics
Perfume is often seen as the "cash cow" of luxury goods companies, offering a steady stream of income with little creativity, man-hours, and expenditure on raw materials. Compared to, say, an haute couture wedding dress, perfumes can be produced by the tankful and are therefore the least expensive of all luxury items. Most people from the lower middle class and up can afford to buy a fragrance from time to time.
Helped by the influx of funds from global luxury conglomerates, in the late 1990s fragrance firms like Guerlain began to launch collectible editions in an aim to stand out from the ever-growing mainstream market and add a touch of exclusivity to the brand. To name just a few such items from the Guerlain repertoire, we've had vintage Baccarat reissues, Muguet, Guerlinade, Guet-Apens, Plus Que Jamais Guerlain, Nuit d'Amour, and Les Secrets de Sophie. If you had a few hundred Euros to spare, Guerlain offered an exciting possibility to make your personal perfume collection even more special.
During the last decade, however, the price of high-end luxury goods has skyrocketed — even when we adjust for accumulated French inflation in the same period of around fifteen percent, it has multiplied several times. (As a footnote, the average French income has increased by around twenty percent in the last ten years.)
The Guerlain catalogue from 2005 lists that year's special Baccarat edition (Plus Que Jamais Guerlain, 500 ml quadrilobe bottle) at 1,500 €. Compare that to the latest Baccarat edition (equally a 500 ml quadrilobe), exquisitely decorated by designer Janaïna Milheiro with coloured feathers and pearls to evoke the four seasons, which goes for 16,000 € per bottle.
I will argue that forcing an haute couture approach, at such extreme prices, onto something that in essence could have been made very affordable and for a larger audience to enjoy, is a way of turning a product into a political statement, shamelessly and unnecessarily trumpeting the sad fact that we live in a time of immense decadence and greed. Does Guerlain really see us as being that primitive?
P.S. If you're looking for an investment, you should choose gold over Guerlain. Auctioned perfumes, even the more affordable ones, barely hold their original value. The value of gold, on the other hand, has increased by three hundred percent since 2005.
Guerlain packaging changes 2016
During the last few weeks, Guerlain has revealed some packaging design changes for several fragrances.
The refillable golden canisters are being replaced by the standard bee atomizer. At the same time, the label for the bee atomizer has been redesigned to reflect a cleaner look, featuring the Sun King logo which Guerlain revived in 2013. The design of the label for the quadrilobe bottle has had a similar makeover to afford a more homogeneous look to the brand.
The masculine line has been rendered uniform with the classic "Habit Rouge" bottle, adding coloured faux wood caps. Only the bottles for the L'Homme Idéal line, the Parisien line, and Mouchoir de Monsieur are unchanged.
The Exclusives have been re-dressed in a dark amethyst leather box decorated with a bas-relief of the Sun King logo. For the L'Art & la Matière bottle, a new on/off bulb atomizer design has been introduced. The old bulb atomizer design had a serious issue with leakage, which the on/off functionality should solve. Also, the golden metal strip carrying the name of the fragrance now features the Sun King logo as well as the revived 1930s' Futura font, which Guerlain has adopted recently for most of its presentations.
At Guerlain it's not only what's on the inside that counts. A perfume's bottle is just as important as the scent itself, designed expressly to tell a story about the creation within it. Guerlain is well known for its great variation in bottle designs, and no other perfume house can boast such a prolific output of different bottles. As a rule, each fragrance has come with its own unique bottle to give it a visual identity.
Guerlain would sometimes even add to the selection with special one-off bottle editions of an existing fragrance. An example of the latter was a limited edition from 1994 of Chant d'Arômes and Parure Eau de Toilette, pictured below. In recent years, however, the brand has reversed its stance and started to reduce the variety of designs, by reusing the same bottle for different scents. Thus several bottle designs have stopped being produced, such as the Jardins de Bagatelle bottle, the leather-clad bottle for Habit Rouge Eau de Parfum, the ribbed Vetiver bottle, and the bottles for Héritage, L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme, and Guerlain Homme. This is obviously an effective way of saving manufacturing costs. At the same time, maybe Guerlain aims at a more streamlined and homogeneous look across its line of bottles, as we know it from niche perfumery. For instance, the same bottle is used for the L'Art & la Matière line, Les Elixirs Charnels, Les Déserts d'Orient, and Parfum du 68.
The 8-Step Program To Beat Sugar Addiction
Some perfumes can cause sugar addiction, which seriously harms the wellbeing of your surroundings. Here’s the 8-Step Program To Beat Sugar Addiction.
1. Go cold turkey.
Wear Mitsouko for one month straight.
2. Know your high risk situations.
Lock up all sugary perfumes and throw away the key. Or better yet, give them to a charity. Leaving them around will only tempt teenagers who are prone to addiction. Stop reading fragrance blogs, forums, and Facebook pages, and delete the Instagram app from your smartphone. Avoid fragrance shops, physical and online. If you insist on visiting Maison Guerlain, go straight upstairs to attend a vintage workshop, and don’t stop by the Nouveautés section. Go to the opera instead of discos. Dress down and wear less makeup.
3. Be accountable to someone.
Having a sponsor to be accountable to is part of any recovery program. Say to your spouse, friend or colleague, “I will not wear Le Plus Beau Jour de ma Vie again.” And then remember that if you try to wear it on the sly, you’ll be noticed a mile away.
4. Distract yourself.
“Perfume is such an irrelevant thing,” says Luca Turin. Focus on more pertinent pursuits instead, like cleaning the house, reading Tolstoy novels, or having conversations with your spouse.
5. Get some buddies.
It works for Girl Scouts, depressives, and addicts of all kinds. Have six numbers programmed into your phone, so that it’s easy to reach someone who can say, “You’re doing just fine, and Mitsouko smells so much better on you.”
6. Be the expert.
You have to fake it ’til you make it. You'll feel stronger after having helped someone who is struggling with sugar addiction.
7. A slip is not a relapse.
A single squirt of La Petite Robe Noire Intense doesn’t mean you’re doomed and might as well use up the whole bottle.
8. Do nothing.
If you do absolutely nothing, that means you’re not getting worse, and that is perfectly acceptable most days. After all, tomorrow is another day.
P.S. Make an appointment to see your dentist to check for cavities, and your doctor for an evaluation for diabetes.
New Guerlain label design
Guerlain is currently changing the look of several of its fragrances. Shown here is the new label design of the bee spray bottle. The new design is cleaner than the previous one, with more empty space and using the geometric Futura font. In addition, the label features the gilded Sun King logo. The Sun King, the Futura font and the cursive brand name logo all represent historic Guerlain design elements.
Guerlain's cursive logo
Since 1828, Guerlain has redesigned its brand name logo several times. It has even been common practice to have different logo designs in use at the same time. As Maison Guerlain underwent its first restoration in 2005, Guerlain reintroduced the rounded cursive logo, which most fans know from Shalimar’s bottle stopper, for the new exclusive lines and for the bee bottles. This logo dates back to the Belle Epoque era and can still be seen on Maison Guerlain’s facade. Later, the logo also appeared on the bottles for Idylle (2009) and La Petite Robe Noire (2012). In 2011, the logo was used for the masculine Eau de Toilette bottle for Habit Rouge and Vetiver.
This year, Guerlain changes the look of its masculine range, which will now come with the geometric sans-serif logo first seen on L'Instant de Guerlain in 2003, and launched more broadly in 2013.
Guerlain Futura: back to the 1930s
Although some of Guerlain's bottle designs are well over 100 years old and are still on the market as a testament to the brand's durability and timelessness, Guerlain has nevertheless regularly updated its image to conform to changing tastes. Due to the advanced age of the brand, this year celebrating its 188th anniversary, there is a constant concern at Guerlain to not look like a museum or, even worse, something that has seen better days. In the last few years, Guerlain has been busy trimming its visual appearance to become more streamlined and uniform. The Shalimar atomizer got a sleeker shape by Jade Jagger in 2010, and in 2013, Maison Guerlain received a total makeover by cutting-edge New York architect Peter Marino. While the historic Art Nouveau shop area was largely left untouched, all unnecessary ornamentation was discarded, such as the richly decorated sucrier tester bottles. At the same time, a reinvigorated website and brand name logo were launched, both made with clean, minimalist lines.
When Guerlain released L'Homme Idéal, Shalimar Souffle de Parfum and Terracotta Le Parfum the following year, they all came with the geometric Futura font on the labels and boxes, which is the same font now used throughout Guerlain's website. The font was eventually extended to include the La Petite Robe Noire boxes. This font had already been used, in a slightly modified form, on the redesigned white labels for the Eaux Fraîches. In 2016, Guerlain's spray bottles for all masculine scents and most of the classic feminines, as well as the quadrilobe Parfum bottle, will be repackaged with the Futura font.
Originally conceived in 1927 by typeface designer Paul Renner, the Futura font favoured simple geometric forms: near-perfect circles, triangles and squares. The font became representative of visual elements of the Bauhaus design style, and has gained widespread popularity thanks to its air of efficiency and modernity. As Guerlain adopts this font today, it's actually a revival of a visual style that the brand employed extensively during the 1930s, for such creations as Vol de Nuit, Sous le Vent, the lantern bottle, the war bottle, and Coque d'Or. Today, Guerlain aficionados mainly know it from the watch-shaped Eau de Cologne bottle (1936), which was sold until the late 1990s.
While Guerlain replaces the refillable golden canisters with the standard bee atomizer, the brand also introduces a new label design for the quadrilobe Parfum bottle. It matches the new bee atomizer label, which is solid-coloured and features the Sun King logo.
The quadrilobe bottle was created in 1908 by Aimé Guerlain’s brother, Gabriel, for the perfume Rue de la Paix. This scent was the only one ever issued by Pierre Guerlain, Jacques’ older brother. The stopper of the bottle looks like a quatrefoil ("quadrilobe" in French) or a champagne cork. Today, the quadrilobe bottle is mainly known as the bottle for Jicky, but it was really a standard bottle, having contained most Guerlain fragrances, and the label often varied for each edition. The original label design persisted however, with only minor design changes being made throughout the decades.
The original label was framed by a laurel garland, and had both the perfume’s name, the brand name, and Guerlain’s address on the rue de la Paix printed on it. When the Champs-Elysées shop opened in 1914, the address on the label was changed accordingly.
Eventually, as Guerlain opened up more and more shops, the address was deleted from the label. Also, the brand name logo was modernized and moved from the top of the label to become more visible at its bottom.
The new quadrilobe label is bigger than the old one, covering most of the bottle’s front facet, and the design is much more streamlined. The laurel garland has been removed, and the size of the writing is significantly reduced. The clean geometric Futura font, which was first used by Guerlain in the 1930s and reintroduced in 2014 for L'Homme Idéal, Shalimar Souffle de Parfum and Terracotta Le Parfum, is now applied to the perfume’s name, while the brand's name is written in the cursive Belle Epoque script that Guerlain employs for some of its presentations. Finally, the Sun King logo, which had a comeback in 2013, embellishes the upper part of the label, partly masked by the silk tassel. Read more about Guerlain's bottles
Photo of the new label by emmy_withlace on Instagram.
You need more
The perfume style known as gourmand, a caramel-fruit-patchouli accord first invented in 1992’s Angel, has now been ruling feminine fragrances for a quarter of a century. It makes it the industry’s most influential and enduring trend since the introduction of the oriental fragrance category more than ninety years ago. Like the latter, it hits upon the primordial taste for sweetness, but with a candy-like flavour freed from the voluptuous, carnal qualities of vintage perfumery, which fell out of fashion in the minimalist 1990s.
Due to its popularity and lucrative potential, this three-component accord has locked perfumery in a vicious cycle of supply and demand, in which everyone is busy doing more of what’s already there.
This summer, Guerlain introduces its first cotton candy fragrance, with notes of blackcurrant sorbet, fresh-floral bubble gum, clean cotton, sugar-dusted patchouli, and caramel fudge. Read review of La Petite Robe Noire Intense
Guerlain has announced a new addition to its successful La Petite Robe Noire line, called "Intense", which features a deep blue juice and a Marilyn Monroe dress pictograph. The scent is described as a mix of cotton candy, blackcurrant, raspberry, bergamot, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, white musk, vanilla, sandalwood and patchouli.
The infantilization of perfumery, with sweet fruit, cotton candy, caramel, and chocolate, began with Mugler’s Angel (1992), igniting a pandemic for which no cure has yet been found. Lancôme launched La Vie Est Belle to immediate success two decades later, the same year as the international release of La Petite Robe Noire, and it seems that Guerlain, like most other brands, has been in constant competition with Lancôme's blockbuster caramel floral ever since, issuing sugar bombs like French Kiss, Mon Exclusif, Le Bouquet de la Mariée, and now, La Petite Robe Noire Intense.
The golden canisters replaced by the bee atomizer
Last year, Guerlain disclosed that its golden canisters were going to be phased out and replaced by another bottle design in 2016. We now know that the new bottle in question is in fact the standard bee bottle atomizer, bearing a label that features the Sun King logo. The new bottles will appear little by little as boutiques run out of stock of the canisters.
The refillable golden canister, called Habit de Fête ("holiday dress"), was introduced in 1982 for both EdT, EdP and Parfum, as a replacement for the "Delftware" enamel canisters from 1965. The design of the golden canister had a basket weave pattern, which was modernized with a furrow-and-hole look in 1996.
The bee atomizer first appeared in 1992, initially meant for the Eaux Fraîches. It was subsequently used for Petit Guerlain, Après l'Ondée, Chant d'Arômes, Mouchoir de Monsieur, and Parure as well, and in 2013 for Jardins de Bagatelle. In addition, it was used for the limited editions L'Insolente (formerly Precious Heart) and Place Rouge (formerly Quand Vient la Pluie). Recently, the bee atomizer has also become the bottle for the home fragrances. Read more about Guerlain's bottles
The repackaging-equals-reformulation myth
Guerlain is changing the look of its masculine line, rendering it uniform with the classic "Habit Rouge" bottle design and adding coloured faux wood caps that match the exclusive Parisien collection.
There is the widespread notion that a new bottle design means that the juice has been reformulated as well, although in reality repackaging and reformulation are unrelated. It seems that our brain wants to see a pattern even where none exists. While Guerlain continuously reformulates its existing fragrances as new IFRA restrictions come along, and suppliers stop producing some of their perfume bases, reformulations are not scheduled to coincide with the marketing team’s decision to change bottle or box designs. Reformulations are quite costly in terms of man-hours expended, and the job of a marketing team is in fact to reduce costs.
One reason that the repackaging-equals-reformulation myth lives on, is the simple fact that an announcement of a new bottle design will spur people on to go to the shop to smell new bottles of a scent they already own. They will examine the fresh juice and then compare it to a bottle they bought ten years ago. As the aged juice has gone through the normal steps of top notes diminishing and base notes rounding and deepening, critics will erroneously conclude that the scent has been reformulated. Expect a steady stream of online fragrance forum discussions titled “Guerlain reformulates XX” to appear in the near future.
La Petite Robe Noire — the family
Given the worldwide success of La Petite Robe Noire, it's hard to believe that it was originally made as an exclusive fragrance limited to Paris. The scent proved very popular among Maison Guerlain's customers, and in 2012 it was decided to put it into wider distribution, in a slightly reworked version. It was a clever move, as the concept seems to have endless potential. Guerlain has stated that the intent of La Petite Robe Noire is to cultivate a younger audience.
This summer, a so-called "Intense" version joins the family, a very sweet scent of cotton candy, blackcurrant, raspberry, bergamot, rose, jasmine, orange blossom, white musk, vanilla, sandalwood and patchouli. Read more about La Petite Robe Noire
The plastic bee bottle
Guerlain's new bath line, Les Délices de Bain, comes in a plastic variant of the bee bottle, similar in shape to the first bath bee bottles from the early 1990s (shown here). The design of the new bath bottle is more streamlined though, with a smooth cap and without the Vendôme column's fish-scale pattern on the upper part of the bottle. Read more about Les Délices de Bain
Women, horses and perfumes
Jean-Paul Guerlain has recently announced that he is to return to perfume composition and launch his own line of niche fragrances in 2017, named My Exclusive Collection.
We all know that Jean-Paul Guerlain's primary hobbies are women, horses and perfumes. He has described in several interviews how his feminine fragrances were always motivated by a woman who evoked passion in him. "You always create perfumes for the women you love, whom you admire, and with whom you live," he said, quoting his mentor and grandfather, Jacques Guerlain. The book "Parfums d'Amour" (2010) was written like a diary about the love affairs that inspired some of his perfumes.
It's therefore no surprise that Jean-Paul Guerlain's new brand logo features an equestrienne who looks a lot like his wife, Christina de Kragh. Like Jean-Paul Guerlain, Kragh has a deep interest in riding horses. Photo of Christina de Kragh taken from Facebook. Read more about Jean-Paul Guerlain's new fragrance line
500 new Guerlain perfumes in 20 years
When in 1996 Guerlain celebrated the 70th anniversary of Djedi with a Baccarat reissue, the brochure stated that the brand had by then created a total of 300 fragrances.
In 2016, Sylvaine Delacourte informs us that the list of Guerlain creations since 1828 counts 800 scents.
It means that Guerlain has made 500 fragrances in twenty years, or a little over two new scents each month. No wonder it's hard work to keep up with Guerlain's news feed.
Note: There’s obviously an error in the Djedi brochure, as Jacques Guerlain alone is cited as having created 400 scents.
Each year sees approximately twenty new fragrance launches by Guerlain, half of which are reissues or limited edition bottles. Of the latter, most are made for the Shalimar and La Petite Robe Noire lines. Making limited edition bottles is one of the very affordable ways for fragrance brands to keep up the sales momentum, as it doesn't involve the design of a new fragrance, bottle, and marketing campaign, nor any trademark applications.
In 2016, we get a second limited edition bottle for Shalimar Souffle de Parfum, with splashes of blue and turquoise paint applied to the front (pictured to the right). We wonder why Guerlain never issues limited edition bottles for its masculine fragrances. We'd love a collectible L'Homme Idéal bottle, wouldn't we?
Three generations of Muguet
This year's Muguet is advertised not only with its annual new bottle design, but, for the first time since 1998, with a whole new fragrance composed by Thierry Wasser. Until now, the varying Muguet bottles have all contained the same fragrance, originally signed by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1998. With the advent of a Thierry Wasser version, Guerlain's Muguet will cover three generations of perfumers, reflecting how the lily of the valley theme is influenced by personal taste and history's sensibilities. Read more about Jacques Guerlain's Muguet
Muguet by Jacques Guerlain (1908). The earliest Guerlain catalogue had a Muguet cologne, dating back to 1840, and although Jacques Guerlain often used lily of the valley as a top note, he probably wouldn't have had much interest in making a proper lily of the valley perfume had it not been for the fact that it is quite a challenge to do. This flower, so strongly fragrant and pure, doesn't yield essential oils, so in order to source its fragrance, it has to be reconstructed in the laboratory by a sophisticated combination of numerous other natural and synthetic ingredients, called a base. Jacques Guerlain's Muguet was a powdery, musky fragrance with a soft, but distinct note of Nivea cream, faithful to the tastes of the Belle Époque, but unlikely to be popular nowadays. It came in a bottle with a bouquet of silk flowers fixed by a collar around the neck. Later editions of the bottle saw a simpler ribbon bow instead of the flower decoration.
Muguet by Jean-Paul Guerlain (1998). Ninety years later, Guerlain began a new convention of creating limited editions launched for special occasions. One of them was a new version of Muguet by Jean-Paul Guerlain, made to celebrate May Day, which the French sometimes call La fête du muguet. Jean-Paul Guerlain's Muguet fragrance was presented in a copy of the original bottle, but the scent was entirely different, a fresher EdT than his grandfather's musky Parfum. The lily of the valley note was still romantic, but effortlessly lifelike and crisp. We recognize the cheerful, sunny style of Aqua Allegoria, which Jean-Paul Guerlain introduced the following year. From 2006 to the present, Guerlain has issued a yearly edition of Jean-Paul Guerlain's Muguet fragrance, each year presented with a new bottle design.
Muguet by Thierry Wasser (2016). Thierry Wasser's new Muguet fragrance is described as "a remarkably natural and modern interpretation" with green notes, dewy rose, and jasmine. Its top note is more tender and vegetal than the hissing citrus opening of Jean-Paul Guerlain’s version, with a passing resemblance to the green note in Thierry Wasser’s Cologne du Parfumeur. The powerful citrus note was typical of Jean-Paul Guerlain, who preferred a very bold expression full of contrast and vibrancy. In comparison, Wasser searches for a lighter touch with subtle nuances and fine details. One reason for the gentler — and, as Guerlain puts it, "natural and modern", — feel of Thierry Wasser’s Muguet might be that it omits the lilac, that clean, bright and intensely floral note that makes some people think of old ladies' perfumes and air fresheners. Perhaps the most interesting difference is to be found in the drydown, which has a creamy, very comfortable note that goes hand-in-hand with the jasmine. Despite Guerlain’s description of 2016’s as a "modern interpretation", Wasser’s Muguet actually smells closer to the historic Jacques Guerlain version of 1908. The creamy note was completely absent in Jean-Paul Guerlain’s purely floral Muguet fragrance.
There are actually no flankers to La Petite Robe Noire EdP
Each year since 2012, when La Petite Robe Noire was launched on the international market, Guerlain has released a new limited edition bottle of this popular scent. Making special bottle editions of an existing fragrance is an economical way for a brand to maintain consumers' attention in an inundated market, and to inspire the excitement of bottle collectors and brand enthusiasts.
However, these bottle editions are often marketed in a confusing way, with subtly differing ways of describing the fragrance notes (for instance "black cherry" instead of "cherry"), even though the formula is unchanged, leading many websites to mistake them for new juices and flankers of the original fragrance. The confusion further increased last year when La Petite Robe Noire EdP was advertised as "Ma Première Robe". As a consequence, people tend to think that a seemingly endless list of La Petite Robe Noire flankers exists. In reality, the La Petite Robe Noire family counts only five different versions: EdP, Parfum, EdT, Couture, and Eau Fraîche.
Illustrated here are the limited edition bottles of La Petite Robe Noire EdP since 2012, all of them containing the same fragrance. Note that in 2012, the limited edition bottles were a trio.
In 2011, Guerlain released the Aqua Allegoria Jasminora, a fresh floral fragrance worked around a tender jasmine, with notes of galbanum, cyclamen, freesia, lily of the valley, white musk, and a touch of amber. The scent proved quite popular, but was discontinued just in time to be reissued as Cour des Senteurs Versailles, featured in a Parisienne-size bee bottle to commemorate the opening of Guerlain's new Versailles boutique in 2013.
The choice of using Jasminora for the Versailles edition stemmed from the fact that it was marketed as inspired by Marie Antoinette's favourite flower, the jasmine.
The Versailles boutique closes in March 2016, but the scent continues to live on in a 550 € quadrilobe bottle edition, called Le Bouquet de la Reine, whose sale is going to support the restoration of the Versailles castle.
Guerlain likes to play with its own vast history, and adapt vintage concepts for new products. One example is the reuse of the shape of the 1937 bow tie bottle (a.k.a. the Coque d'Or bottle) for the fragrance Mon Exclusif. With Santal Royal, a scent dedicated to the Middle Eastern market, we have found an even older reference: the golden label on Santal Royal's black bottle reprises an arabesque on the lid of Guerlain's La Poudre C'est Moi, a face powder dating back to 1925.
La Poudre C'est Moi was scented with Shalimar, which debuted the same year, and Shalimar being Guerlain's most famous oriental fragrance, it makes sense that the brand eyed an opportunity to reuse this look for a new fragrance inspired by the Orient. In reality though, the design of La Poudre C'est Moi had nothing to do with the Orient, but was inherently French, made in pure Louis XIV style. The name "La Poudre C'est Moi" was in fact a paraphrasing of a well-known Louis XIV quote, "L'État, C'est Moi". The Sun King emblem of Louis XIV is one of Guerlain's historic logos, which was revived in 2013.
The forthcoming sequel to Santal Royal, called Ambre Éternel, features a similar arabesque label design, but with a new motif that is unmistakably Middle Eastern.
4 x "Du 68"
Created by Sophie Labbé in 2006, Cologne du 68 was meant to commemorate the renovation of Maison Guerlain the year before. Technically an Eau de Toilette and not a cologne, the fragrance was named after the address of Maison Guerlain, 68 Champs-Elysées. Cologne du 68 reportedly was made up of sixty-eight raw materials, which probably wasn't the technical truth either, but it was true that it smelled like a lot of different things at the same time: citrus, herbs, flowers, spices, wood, sap, praline, at once fresh, green, floral and gourmand. Inspired by the scent of the maquis, Corsica's fragrant wilderness, its star ingredient was everlasting flower, soft, mild and honeyed.
The second renovation of Maison Guerlain in 2013 spawned a reinterpretation of the scent, this time called Parfum du 68. The scent retained the everlasting flower and the characteristic spicy-praline accord of Cologne du 68, but turned it into a floral gourmand perfume with notes of mandarin, rose, magnolia, jasmine, tonka bean, musk, benzoin and incense. If Cologne du 68 was "three parts cologne, one part L'Instant Femme and two parts L'Instant Homme," as Luca Turin wittily said, then Parfum du 68 felt like Cologne du 68 made into a L'Art & la Matière.
Confusingly, Parfum du 68 was not a Parfum, but an EdP. In French, the term "Parfum" is often used generically to simply mean "perfume". Eventually, a real Parfum version of Parfum du 68 was launched, featured in a costly Baccarat crystal bottle, a giant black version of the historic tortoise bottle. The tortoise bottle is closely linked to Maison Guerlain, as it was originally created when the Champs-Elysées boutique opened for the first time in 1914. Named L'Extrait du 68, this more luxurious version of the scent had all the delectable intensity we love about Guerlain: the spices were spicier, the rose, jasmine and magnolia were richer and more sensual, and the base was altogether more addictive, a gorgeous cocoon of amber, incense and white musk.
The latest "Flacon Tortue" version essentially smells like L'Extrait du 68, but the top note is significantly more floral, with a very feminine aura of jasmine and orange blossom. Also, the fragrance is fruitier, which Guerlain ascribes to the inclusion of osmanthus blossom, a flower with fruity-leathery notes of plum, prunes and apricot. A delightful fragrance, which Guerlain has produced in only forty-seven 60 ml bottles (that is less than three litres!), each priced at 9,500 €. Read more about Cologne du 68 / Parfum du 68
Guerlain offers the possibility of purchasing the perfume of your choice in bee bottles on special order. Shown here (first picture) are the 250 ml sizes of Nahéma Parfum, personalized with engraving, together with Nahéma EdP. Nahéma Parfum is leaving the Guerlain catalogue as of January 2016. The second picture shows Habit Rouge Dress Code.
One bottle, ten stories
In 1925, Paris was entranced by the exotic, the year Josephine Baker sailed from America to star in La Revue Nègre on the Champs-Elysées. Those were the colonial years. Shalimar's bottle turns ninety years old this year and tells us all the stories. While Guerlain has chosen not to celebrate the Shalimar anniversary, we can at least revel in the beauty of this masterly, exotic creation. Read more about Shalimar
Guerlain has confirmed that the Parfum version of Nahéma is leaving the catalogue as of January 2016. Nahéma was never the commercial success it was meant to be, not least due to a completely inadequate ad campaign. Shown below is the only ad material ever produced for Nahéma. Read more about Nahéma
Lying in repose
One of Guerlain's, and perfumery's, most beautiful creatures has passed away. She died young, at the age of thirty-six.
Often called the Daughter of Fire, strong-willed and fiery, she wasn't loved by all. Yet her captivating beauty, with perfect features like a rose in bloom, was unquestionable. She was an example to many.
Nahéma Parfum is survived by her less extravagant sister, Nahéma EdP.
RIP Read more
Fleur de Feu — memorial of the fallen
Fleur de Feu (1948) was Jacques Guerlain's first perfume after World War II. Translating to "flower of fire", the name seems to imply something powerful and burning which this delicate, fresh-honeyed and aldehydic floral scent is not.
The name reportedly was inspired by the idea of flowers rising from the flames, the latter illustrated by the bright white light of the aldehyde top note. Like any other country, France mourned its wounded and fallen soldiers after the war, and Jacques Guerlain himself lost his youngest son on the front. It has been suggested that his sadness over it explains why he didn't create another masterpiece in his later years. The tragic theme of the fallen of war was underscored by Fleur de Feu's bottle, which resembled a memorial column like the ones you find at the Panthéon, Paris' mausoleum for national heroes and heroines (pictured on the right). Read more about Fleur de Feu
The crisp, cool air of October on the Northern Hemisphere, awash with fall colours, calls for the warmth of the Guerlinade. Pictured here are Héritage EdP, Cuir Beluga, Parfum du 68, Tonka Impériale, Attrape Cœur, Iris Ganache, Spiritueuse Double Vanille, and L'Instant de Guerlain Pour Homme EdP.
New format to old formulas
A little over a decade ago, when the demand for frequent new launches intensified, Guerlain began to occasionally reuse existing formulas for new perfume editions. In 2014 alone, there were three such reissues. To catch consumers' attention in today's enormous and overloaded market, Guerlain sees it necessary to perform at a speed of twenty releases per year. Yes, twenty — that’s more than one every three weeks.
It seems evident that this pace would wear out even the most productive and creative perfumer (or perfumer team: Thierry Wasser is assisted by perfumers Delphine Jelk and Frédéric Sacone to create new scents) — at least when the end product must have the high quality that Guerlain wants as its hallmark ("Make good products, never compromise on quality," founder Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain admonished his successors). It's therefore no surprise that half of all Guerlain releases consist of reissues or special bottle editions, products that the marketing department can rejig without involving a perfumer.
The Guerlain archive contains an early example of a fragrance relaunched with a new name, namely Kriss (1942) which later appeared as Dawamesk. However, this practice was not very common in the Jacques Guerlain era; in his time, demand didn't exceed his capacity. The reason for renaming Kriss was that this perfume had an unfortunate association with the Nazis.
Sometimes, Guerlain fans are happy about a reissue, like when the rather costly limited edition Quand Vient l'Été (1998) became available the following year as the more affordable Voile d'Été in the Terracotta series. At others, fans are dismayed to find a once readily available fragrance relaunched and marketed as a whole new deluxe perfume, such as Cour des Senteurs Versailles (which contains Aqua Allegoria Jasminora) and Carmen Le Bolshoï (formerly Vetiver Pour Elle). See full list of Guerlain perfume names with a known release year since 1828
The Baccarat Crystal company has played a significant role in the artistic development of Guerlain's exquisite bottles. Since the beginning of the 20th century, many of Guerlain's bottles were designed in close collaboration with Baccarat, and all of Guerlain's most famous bottles have been produced in a Baccarat crystal edition. Although today's perfumes are sold in more affordable glass bottles, Guerlain is still working with Baccarat to produce exclusive editions for perfume collectors.
Collecting rare objects has never been a viable hobby for those on a budget, but recent years have witnessed a boom in Baccarat's prices, making Guerlain's crystal editions unattainable to all but the most wealthy collectors. In 2005, the Baccarat edition of the quadrilobe bottle, containing 500 ml of the perfume Plus Que Jamais Guerlain, was priced at the now seemingly reasonable 1,500 €, and in 2007, Candide Effluve was reissued in the 60 ml smoke brown Baccarat bottle, priced at 2,000 €. The price of crystal started to boom in 2008, when on the occasion of Guerlain's 180th anniversary Parfum des Champs-Elysées was relaunched in a 500 ml tortoise bottle for 10,000 €. Fast forward to 2014, and the 190 ml size of the gilded bow tie bottle for Coque d'Or came with a 17,000 € price tag! In 2015, the tortoise bottle is being reissued once again, this time in a 60 ml version priced at 9,500 €.
The price of a tortoise
In 1914, Guerlain launched Parfum des Champs-Elysées to celebrate the opening of the company's new boutique on the Champs-Elysées boulevard, at that time the most fashionable address of Paris. The perfume was presented in a Baccarat crystal bottle shaped like a tortoise. During the Art Nouveau design period, animal motifs were very much in vogue. Since Jacques Guerlain had already finished Parfum des Champs-Elysees ten years earlier, the tortoise shape reportedly was a comment on slowness of the construction work of the building site. The bottle came in an egg-shaped red box.
In 1995, Guerlain chose to reissue Parfum des Champs-Elysées and the tortoise bottle, so Baccarat was commissioned to replicate the bottle in its 60 ml size. The brand had just entered the luxury goods conglomerate LVMH the year before, and the influx of new funds was spent on invigorating the image of Guerlain as the epitome of French perfumery. Among the new projects was the reissue of some of Guerlain's long-forgotten vintage perfumes. The retail price for the reissued tortoise edition, presented in a square box, was 6,000 Francs, which today would equal 1,200 € (adjusted for inflation).
Twenty years later, in 2015, Guerlain once again reissues the Baccarat tortoise bottle. This time the bottle contains a new fragrance, described as a fruitier and more floral version of Parfum du 68 from 2013. The size, 60 ml, is the same as in 1995, but now the price is almost eight times higher, namely 9,500 €. The extravagant price reflects the fact that LVMH has succeeded in making Guerlain into one of the most esteemed brands among wealthy collectors around the world.
Guerlain breaks the record: 9,500 € for 60 ml
Guerlain has released an exclusive run of the historic tortoise bottle, which makes it the fourth time that Guerlain reissues this bottle. The scent for this new 60 ml edition in clear Baccarat crystal is described as a spicy and woody floral in Parfum concentration, with notes of immortelle, osmanthus, mandarin, tonka bean, benzoin, vanilla and white musk. Guerlain explains that it's a fruitier and more floral version of Parfum du 68 (pictured on the right). Priced at 9,500 €, it breaks the record for the most expensive Guerlain exclusive so far. Compare with last year's 190 ml Baccarat reissue of Coque d'Or, which went for 17,000 €.
Ne m'Oubliez Pas — historic name for new exclusive
Guerlain has released a new perfume whose availability is limited to the Champs-Elysées boutique in Paris. Called Ne m'Oubliez Pas ("forget me not"), its name is taken from the brand's historic lipstick, introduced in 1870 as the world's first lipstick.
In English, Forget-me-not is the name of a number of species of flowering plants in the genus Myosotis, and therefore some people are speculating that the new perfume is related to this flower. With their tender, blue-coloured appearance, Forget-me-nots are often associated with romance and affection. In French, however, no flower is called Ne m'Oubliez Pas. The name Forget-me-not was copied from the flower's German name, "Vergissmeinnicht", which has since been translated into several other languages, but never into French.
Described as an enveloping fruity-floral and liqueur-like fragrance with woody, chypre, and amber facets, and a spicy-fresh top note of cumin and plum, the scent comes in Parfum concentration. The plum theme is echoed in the colour of the juice and the bottle's tassel. The design of the label elegantly evokes the Arc de Triomphe which crowns the Champs-Elysées boulevard. Like Le Bouquet de la Mariée, the perfume is sold in the 125 ml quadrilobe bottle, but at a significantly lower price, namely 500 €. Read fragrance review
Old design achieving worldwide fame
When in 1912 Guerlain commissioned Baccarat's designer Georges Chevalier to create a new perfume bottle, it was meant for L'Heure Bleue and Fol Arôme. Influenced by the prominent Art Nouveau design movement which celebrated nature's sinuous forms, the bottle was made with flowing lines and curvilinear shoulders. As such, the bottle conveyed the angelical grace of the prewar times, even though it was reused for Mitsouko after the war. For many years, Baccarat catalogued it as the "gendarme hat bottle" because the stopper appeared to resemble the hat of a French policeman, but the official inspiration is that of a heart, very suggestive of the Belle Époque's refined romanticism and optimism.
The spray version of the heart-shaped stopper bottle came out in 1995 and has since then been used for a number of different scents in limited editions. Unlike the quadrilobe bottle, however, the heart-shaped bottle was never considered a standard bottle.
With the advent of La Petite Robe Noire, Guerlain's old heart-shaped stopper bottle has achieved worldwide fame. Although the bottle was originally made with L'Heure Bleue in mind, for La Petite Robe Noire Guerlain stressed that it was "the Mitsouko bottle", probably to point out the modern character of the scent. Pictured here are the 7.5 ml Parfum editions of Mitsouko and La Petite Robe Noire. Read more about La Petite Robe Noire
Before "Chypre" became chypre
Most perfume aficionados are familiar with the term "chypre", which designates a fragrance family. Yet the subject isn't completely straightforward. Thierry Wasser has re-created Jacques Guerlain's Chypre de Paris (1909), and this scent reminds us that around 1900, hundreds of perfumes with the name Chypre were being produced, without designating any common accord. Many of them shared an oakmoss accord though, that to modern tastes might smell rather inelegant. The annals suggest that there was a Guerlain perfume called Chypre as early as in 1840.
The name "Chypre" originated from the French word for the Island of Cyprus, however the Osmothèque suggests it was born of an independent etymology referring to "oakmoss". It wasn't until Coty made his Chypre in 1917, an amazing and very novel accord of bergamot, labdanum resin and oakmoss, that the word chypre began to change from name to noun. "'It's a Chypre,' perfumers would say of perfumes similar in structure to Coty's Chypre," explains Will Inrig from the Osmothèque. "Later would appear the common noun 'chypre' and the French adjective 'chypré', both referencing a genre sired by Coty's Chypre and propagated, somewhat confusingly, by Guerlain’s fruity chypre Mitsouko."
Chypre de Paris is not a chypre. It has oakmoss but no labdanum, and the bergamot is subdued. Read more about Chypre de Paris
The changing colours of La Petite Robe Noire
When in 2012 La Petite Robe Noire went from exclusive collection to worldwide success, reworked slightly by Thierry Wasser, the colour of the juice was changed from deep purple to a pale, almost clear almond-yellow hue. The design of the bottle retained the black base, while the transparent part of the glass was given a light shade of pink. In combination, the visual effect was suggestive of both roses, cherries, almond and licorice, which reflected the fragrance quite precisely.
Later batches of the EdP version have seen a change of the juice colour. Now, La Petite Robe Noire is all pink. The change is not least visible in the new refill edition, which features a clear pour bottle (pictured to the right). Read more about La Petite Robe Noire
The Guerlain trio of praline genius
The old Guerlain masters, Jacques and Jean-Paul Guerlain, both professed that a Guerlain perfume must first and foremost smell good. In that respect, Guerlain is still keeping up with tradition. With its combination of almonds and caramelized sugar, praline is something that is universally thought to taste and smell marvelous. Gourmand notes in perfumery became popular with Mugler's Angel (1992), but Guerlain wanted a note that felt "black" and wasn't all about sweet caramel and cotton candy.
The new note was introduced with La Petite Robe Noire in 2009, featuring a praline scent with dark facets of maple syrup, burnt sugary coffee, roasted almonds, and licorice. Mixed with bergamot, rose, cherry, patchouli and musk, the effect was unquestionably addictive. Last year we saw the launch of L'Homme Idéal, which had the same kind of dark praline blended with neroli, rosemary, green apple, and strong woody molecules. Once again, the result was very attractive. Now, with the advent of the new Habit Rouge anniversary flanker, called Dress Code, for the third time Guerlain proves its genius of using praline in a perfume. This time, it meets with the famous Habit Rouge accord of fresh rose and leather, making for a darker, richer and more sensual rendition of the original fragrance.
Guerlain's genius seems to be not only the dark quality of this praline note, but also its careful balance with the other notes, be they fresh, floral, fruity, woody or leathery. Not too sweet, the praline simply makes all the rest feel more delicious, dense and captivating. Read more about Habit Rouge Dress Code
Putting perfume on a pedestal
Sources often claim that Shalimar's famous bottle (1925) was the first in history to feature a pedestal. However, research reveals that brand Bourjois issued a perfume presented in a pedestal bottle (pictured on the left) as early as 1922, thus predating Shalimar's. Interestingly, the shape of the Bourjois bottle seems to have inspired Shalimar's design! Read more about Shalimar
We're not invited to the party
The past six years have seen the anniversaries of Jacques Guerlain's three most famous and admired perfumes: Mitsouko (90 years in 2009), L'Heure Bleue (100 years in 2012), and Shalimar (90 years in 2015). Collectible editions of these perfumes are on the top of any Guerlain aficionado's wish list, and we believe that anniversaries should be perfect occasions to make something special to crown our collection. Guerlain actually did so, but chose models that were so over-the-top that no one with a normal income could afford to buy them. We're sad and annoyed to know that Guerlain's marketing department is not concerned to please the brand's most loving and loyal audience with special perfume editions that are within financial reach. Read more about this year's special bottle editions
Some images courtesy of guerlain.com
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