Jacques Guerlain 1924
Period: The orientalist years
Thierry Wasser and his assistant perfumer Frédéric Sacone have re-created an extensive list of historic Guerlain perfumes, using the exact same ingredients as when they saw the light for the first time.
Jasmine is one of perfumery's most treasured ingredients, and not without reason. Its sweet, narcotic and creamy fragrance brings beauty to any composition. It's virtually impossible to think of a Jacques Guerlain perfume that doesn't contain jasmine; even Mouchoir de Monsieur had it.
Jacques Guerlain is mainly known as a creator of abstract, complex perfumes, but he probably loved jasmine so much that he felt it was appropriate to create a jasmine soliflore, and name it nothing more elaborate than Jasmin. Jasmine was also the main theme of his Jasmiralda (1917), however the latter was in a more woody setting.
Jasmin (1924) came in the same Lalique bottle as Bouquet de Faunes, moulded with mysterious-looking maiden and faun heads. But there's nothing mysterious about Jasmin, though (as there wasn't about Bouquet de Faunes either). It presents the scent of jasmine in all its natural glory, supported only by lemon, orange-blossom, ylang-ylang, deer musk, and a dash of vanilla. If this fragrance had had white musk instead of the animal variant, today it would have been a perfect Aqua Allegoria.
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