This website is about a man's admiration for the famous French
perfume house of Guerlain. Calling all honey bees and Guerlainophiles!
This website is about a man's admiration for the famous French perfume house of Guerlain. Calling all honey bees and Guerlainophiles!
Guerlain's uniform bottles
Last year, Guerlain replaced the refillable golden canisters for Jicky, Chamade, Nahéma and Vol de Nuit with the standard bee atomizer. Now, the bee atomizer is also replacing the individual spray bottle designs for Samsara, L'Instant de Guerlain, Insolence, Champs-Elysées and Idylle.
Once known for its prolific and varied flacon art, today Guerlain aims at a uniform look for both its feminine and masculine lines. The only remaining individual feminine spray bottle designs are the Aqua Allegoria bottle, the Shalimar bottle, the heart-shaped stopper bottle, the bottles for L'Instant Magic and Terracotta Le Parfum, and the bottle for Mon Guerlain (which is a modified version of the quadrilobe bottle).
In addition, Guerlain has announced that the standard quadrilobe bottle is going to replace the individual Parfum bottles for Samsara, Champs-Elysées and L'Instant de Guerlain. Photo by apathique_et_reveur on Instagram. Read more about Guerlain's bottle standardisation
Mon Idéal Pétales
Among Guerlain’s twenty yearly fragrance releases, half of which are flankers, reissues and special bottle editions, we inevitably find launches that seem motivated by little else than filling up a quota. L’Homme Idéal Sport is one of them. You’d think that Wasser and Jelk would take it as an opportunity to create a whole new and unrelated fragrance in the manner of Habit Rouge Sport, however it’s basically a lighter variant of L’Homme Idéal Cologne from 2015, which was by no means a light fragrance, but a powerful Eau de Toilette, and completely different from the original L'Homme Idéal. Juice notwithstanding, we love the Sport launch for its bottle, a marine blue version that is far more handsome than previous years’ white and taupe designs. Read fragrance review
New Guerlain Parfumeur boutique in Brussels
A new Guerlain Parfumeur boutique will open in mid-May at place Stéphanie in Brussels. The Guerlain Parfumeur concept, entirely dedicated to fragrance, first saw the light last year on the rue Saint-Honoré in Paris. According to Guerlain's CEO, Laurent Boillot, this is the first of 100 new boutiques that the brand plans to open in major cities worldwide within the next ten years. In 2017 alone, six new Guerlain boutiques will be inaugurated. Photo by la recherche on Twitter. Read more about Guerlain's global expansion
Oud Essentiel is Guerlain's third addition to its Absolus d’Orient series, following Santal Royal and Ambre Éternel. Notes listed are saffron, pelargonium, rose, oud, cedarwood, guaiac wood, frankincense, and leather. The Absolus d’Orient fragrances come in an opaque, solid-coloured version of the Eau de Rituel bottle, black for Santal Royal, dark purple for Ambre Éternel, and deep green for Oud Essentiel. The bottle is accented with a masculine-looking scarf around its neck.
It's not that Guerlain's Muguet 2017 isn't truly pretty, with its light green silk ribbon, gold bugle beads, faux lilies of the valley, and a little pearl and Swarovski crystal hiding inside a flower bell, it’s more that it's hard to countenance the fact that its bottle, normally used for the Eaux de Rituel, is mass-produced and thus associated with the lowest retail price of Guerlain’s entire fragrance catalogue, namely 81 € for 125 ml. Muguet, on the other hand, is priced at 430 €.
"Among our customers there are, of course, a small number of passionate and highly educated people, but many are just looking for a rare perfume. These are the same people who buy limited editions in fashion or design," says Guerlain’s marketing director. Let's hope that next year's edition is made for the passionate and highly educated. See all of Guerlain's Muguet bottles since 1998
This year's limited edition bottle for Shalimar Souffle de Parfum
In 2017, Guerlain issues the third limited edition bottle for Shalimar Souffle de Parfum, this time featuring a peacock motif. Like last year's design, it has been created by graphic designer Yohan Masliah, who is also behind the "handwritten" Mon Guerlain logo.
All these "Editions Collector" of Shalimar and its flankers are leading many people to think that a seemingly endless list of Shalimar flankers exists. Even the well-informed Luca Turin is confused. "There are 15 Shalimars out there,” he wrote in 2014 when Souffle de Parfum first came out.
In reality, Shalimar Souffle de Parfum counts as the sixth Shalimar flanker. It was launched almost immediately after the discontinuation of Shalimar Parfum Initial. Like the latter, Souffle de Parfum has no connection to classic Shalimar except for the name, merely retaining a few of the oriental ingredients like jasmine and vanilla. Classic Shalimar is above all about smoky leather, powder and animal notes, while the flankers are designed specifically for those who don’t like these “old-fashioned” scents. (This rule didn't apply to the Ode à la Vanille variants which were classic Shalimar with different sorts of natural vanilla tinctures added to the ethylvanillin.)
"I had a lot of pride for Shalimar Parfum Initial," Thierry Wasser said. "I love the fragrance, but I think the whole concept didn't work. There is only one Shalimar. But frankly, I work for a company and we're not philanthropists, we have to make some money. The sickness of making flankers every five minutes is very upsetting, but if I don't want to get kicked out for not doing my job, I have to do it." Photo by kellybakermedia on Instagram. Read more about Shalimar and its Shalimar flankers
Thierry Wasser: "You cannot be an autistic dictator in the creative world"
Portuguese Vogue has interviewed Thierry Wasser, who explains how being Guerlain's master perfumer is different from just being a perfumer, especially in the areas of respecting the heritage and sourcing and controlling raw materials. "It's a honorific title I guess, but I take it very seriously," he states, emphasizing that his intimate relationship with Jean-Paul Guerlain helped him getting a good start at Guerlain.
Thierry Wasser says that he listens very carefully to the marketing team and all other people who may know more about the Guerlain brand than he does himself. "You cannot be an autistic dictator in the creative world," he says. "Do you think I came out with the Petite Robe Noire concept? Of course not! It's definitely a girl idea. There's a girl hidden behind this Petite Robe Noire, and it was the marketing director, Ann Caroline Prazan, who came with that idea. I didn't really get it immediately, but I thought actually, after a little bit of reflection, that it was a very cool idea that a beauty house will hijack a fashion icon like a little black dress."
Lastly, he is asked what he thinks of making flankers. "I think actually it's very funny to play with a theme," he says. "Of course there's a business behind it. But I'm not a business man. But if other brands or the industry goes that way, and people have fun with those different expressions, I'm cool with that." See the interview
Jean-Paul Guerlain excl. the Guerlinade
Will Guerlain customers get confused when My Exclusive Collection releases new fragrances by Jean-Paul Guerlain?
"Jean-Paul Guerlain is an artist, his name belongs to him, and he will therefore sign his creations and make his name appear on the products. LVMH is well aware of the existence of our company and Jean-Paul Guerlain's collaboration with My Exclusive Collection," says Stéphane Laffont-Reveilhac, CEO of the new brand. "In any case, we do not compete with them. We are a small organization that doesn't constitute any threat to LVMH."
Laffont-Reveilhac emphasizes that Jean-Paul Guerlain's new scents will not resemble anything he has made before. "He hasn't used the famous Guerlinade and wanted to start with something completely new to make these fragrances, also to show that he's still capable of taking the world of cosmetics by surprise." According to Laffont-Reveilhac, 80-year-old Jean-Paul Guerlain has composed 45 new scents in just 18 months — an impressive creativity, to say the least, and vastly more than when he worked at Guerlain, where he created one perfume approximately every four years. By comparison, Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk jointly make ten new fragrances per year. Read more
Jean-Paul Guerlain's new fragrance brand
Jean-Paul Guerlain's much-anticipated fragrance line, My Exclusive Collection, was revealed recently at a soirée at Les Salons de l'Hôtel de France opposite the Versailles castle. Here, guests were invited to discover five new Jean-Paul Guerlain fragrances. "We have a close partnership with Jean-Paul Guerlain, who has created around thirty fragrances for us. He's still just as enthusiastic and creative and capable of doing exceptional things," says Stéphane Laffont-Reveilhac, founder of My Exclusive Collection.
“The fragrances are going to be released towards the end of 2017,” Laffont-Reveilhac adds. “It’s a modern collection, destined for the Middle Eastern market, but the scents are also quite classic, quite Guerlain, as we know it from Jean-Paul's creations.” According to Laffont-Reveilhac, the scents cover a wide olfactory spectrum that has the potential of reaching an international audience. "M. Guerlain has travelled a lot during his career, so he knows precisely the different tastes of various countries, and I think we have a palette that is able to attract very different cultures."
The vision of Laffont-Reveilhac has been to create a new universe around Jean-Paul Guerlain, helped by a group of young talents. “We want to make a difference. We want to be part of French haute parfumerie, with natural raw materials, and to have M. Guerlain as the creator is really extraordinary.” Read more See My Exclusive Collection
At Guerlain, 2017 is the Year of the Woman, as communicated by Angelina Jolie and the PR for the fragrance Mon Guerlain. Now, 66-year-old exiled Burundian Princess Esther Kamatari, who was named ambassador for the brand in 2015, joins in the campaign, saying in an interview that she's "proud to embody a symbol for the new generation of African women." Like Angelina Jolie, Kamatari is known for her humanitarian work.
In the interview, Kamatari makes a direct comment on Jean-Paul Guerlain's racist remark made on French television in 2010: "This M. Guerlain spoke on his own behalf. At that time, the Guerlain house was already bought by LVMH and was no longer linked to its founder," she says.
Kamatari emphasizes that by asking her to represent the brand, Guerlain wasn't just attempting to wipe the slate clean, but wanted a brand ambassador who could speak to all of the world's "African beauties". The interview with Kamatari was published the day after the release party for Jean-Paul Guerlain's new fragrance brand, My Exclusive Collection. Read interview
L'Homme Idéal Sport
This spring, Guerlain launches a Sport version of L'Homme Idéal. It's described as a mix of fresh spices, lemon, bergamot, almond, aromatic and aquatic notes, neroli, green apple, patchouli, vetiver, and coumarin. As such, it represents Guerlain's first use of aquatic notes, which gained popularity in the 1990s. L'Homme Idéal Sport is the fourth Guerlain fragrance officially attributed to both Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk.
For this fourth member of the L'Homme Idéal family, the bottle comes with a marine blue colour scheme. Image from uptodaete.com Read more about L'Homme Idéal
Thierry Wasser: "Angelina Jolie was never in my mind"
In a recent interview during his promotional tour for Mon Guerlain, Thierry Wasser explains that he's always three years ahead of time when creating perfumes that are scheduled for launch, and that when he began working on the Mon Guerlain accord, what he had in mind was the forthcoming 190th anniversary of Guerlain. "My idea was to celebrate 190 years of dedication to beauty," he says.
He felt inspired by the brand's historic tradition of paying tribute to a woman, like the French Empress Eugénie, Sarah Bernhardt, Josephine Baker, and Natalia Vodianova. He imagined a Guerlain portrait of women in the 21st century, who since 1828 have had to fight for independence and equal rights in several domains. During his travels to search for raw materials in Africa, Asia and India, he has observed that women play a crucial role in society. "I decided it would be a good omen to create a portrait of women, not a portrait of one woman, but a portrait of all women." To him, each of the main ingredients of Mon Guerlain represents an aspect of the importance of femininity: lavender (truth, spontaneity, justice, simplicity), jasmine (passion), sandalwood (resilience, power), and vanilla (motherly love).
Thierry Wasser emphasizes that he knew nothing about the project with Angelina Jolie while creating the perfume, and that Jolie hasn't had anything to do with the inspiration for the scent, which was already completed when she came into the picture. "Angelina Jolie was never in my mind or anywhere else, but our president, Laurent Boillot, absolutely wanted to collaborate with Angelina Jolie. He went to meet her in December 2015 while she was directing the film that has been released a few days ago in Cambodia. I didn’t know anything about it, nothing at all. State secret. And when he came back, she said yes. The story, the concept, and the fragrance had been presented to Mrs. Jolie, and she liked what I had made."
This revelation contradicts the brand's official PR, which promotes the scent as "a tribute to today’s femininity — a strong, free and sensual femininity, as inspired by Angelina Jolie."
Mon Guerlain is a manifesto to the world — more than 100 Guerlain boutiques to open up worldwide
In a recent interview, Guerlain's CEO, Laurent Boillot, announces what is the most radical change within the brand’s soul since the LVMH takeover in 1994, saying that the launch of Mon Guerlain marks "a new phase in the development of the house".
"La Petite Robe Noire was a revival, and Mon Guerlain is a manifesto to the world," Boillot says. "With Mon Guerlain, it's an opportunity to show the know-how of French haute parfumerie to the entire world." He explains that it took 300 trials to arrive at the formula, after which the fragrance was tested with customers at Guerlain boutiques. (Editor’s note: at that time, the scent was called Mon Exclusif.)
“We chose this fragrance, because it was very well received,” says Boillot, and Guerlain then developed the ideas for the bottle and the marketing campaign. “After five years without a celebrity face, we have surprised the luxury industry by choosing someone who has rejected to be the face of many houses before signing with Guerlain.”
"We're fighting against the big houses with the same weapons, and we sometimes use the cinema term 'blockbuster'. Mon Guerlain is certainly designed as a blockbuster. Then we'll see how it turns out."
Boillot says that for operational and strategic reasons, China and the US will get Mon Guerlain later than the rest of the world.
He also reveals that the brand is opening up exclusive Guerlain Parfumeur boutiques in major cities around the world, the first one being in Brussels in May. In 2017 alone, six new Guerlain boutiques will see the light, after which 100 new boutiques will be opened over a ten-year period. See interview
La Cuvée Secrète
Guerlain has introduced La Cuvée Secrète, a fresh cologne that joins last year's Un Dimanche à la Campagne to form a new line called Les Eaux Exclusives. La Cuvée Secrète contains the same notes as the discontinued Cologne Fond de Cuve (bergamot, petitgrain and lavender), but with a ml price that is three times higher.
Cologne Fond de Cuve (2013) was a commercialization of Véritable Eau de Cologne Pour le Bain, which Guerlain used to give out for free to its staff.
Guerlain releases Mon Guerlain
Guerlain has now released Mon Guerlain, four days ahead of the previously announced release date. Engraving of the bottle can be ordered online as well. The scent is also available as body lotion and shower gel. Read fragrance review
Mon Celebrity Caramel
Guerlain’s teaming up with Angelina Jolie for the new international fragrance release, Mon Guerlain, is the brand’s biggest marketing triumph since Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain was appointed fragrance purveyor to the French Empress Eugénie in 1853. Fragrance is such a rarefied and specific subject, while celebrities are undeniably more popular.
Since the announcement of the partnership with Jolie in January, followed by large-scale press events all over the world, Guerlain has probably received more international media coverage than in the past 188 years combined. Social media have been ablaze with news about the campaign weeks before the official release date on March 1st, and some shops are selling the fragrance ahead of time. It’s no secret that Guerlain’s brand awareness is lagging catastrophically behind, especially outside of France. On its US Facebook pages, Guerlain’s weekly PTAT (People Talking About This) number rarely exceeds 100 persons. Known for her unique blend of natural beauty, artistic talent, and humanitarian involvement, and as "the most admired woman in the world" as stated in Guerlain's press clip, Angelina Jolie lends not only enormous exposure to Guerlain, but also an aura of philanthropy. Jolie’s film about the victims of the Cambodian genocide during the Khmer Rouge, which premiered in Cambodia on February 18, as well as her statement that she's donating her entire Guerlain modeling fee to charity, only adds to the good press.
Except for the facts that Angelina Jolie is American and extremely thin, both of which have enraged most of Guerlain’s French Facebook followers, the only disadvantage of using her as a spokesmodel for the campaign is that it completely overshadows the fragrance itself. However, in the case of Mon Guerlain, there’s nothing new under the sun anyway, because for two years the fragrance was known as Mon Exclusif, which has now been discontinued. Read full review
Prerelease of Mon Guerlain
Mon Guerlain, scheduled for international launch on March 1, is already available in some webshops and stores here and there. Helped by Angelina Jolie, it's the brand's most anticipated fragrance launch ever, with shops being bombarded with telephone calls and emails.
For this release, Guerlain has reinvented the historic quadrilobe dab bottle (1908) as an atomizer, crowned with a plastic quatrefoil cap. The base of the cap is surrounded by an embossed, gilded metal band that replaces the traditional cording by the Dames de Table. Like Mon Exclusif, the bottle comes without a label, so we assume you're supposed to have it engraved with a name of your choice. In fact, it's Guerlain's most anonymous fragrance presentation to date, with the Guerlain name almost invisibly moulded into the glass. According to Guerlain boutique staff, the fragrance is almost identical to Mon Exclusif, which has now been discontinued, with notes of lavender, jasmine, sandalwood, orris, tonka bean, and vanilla.
Aqua Allegoria Rosa Fizz
There's a prerelease of this year's Aqua Allegoria travel edition at some airports. Called Rosa Fizz, it replaces last year's Rosa Pop, which was a reissue of the successful Pivoine Magnifica from 2005.
We can't detect much of a difference between Fizz and Pop, but it sure is a wonderful, citrusy fruity-floral, designed to get you hooked the minute you sniff it from the tax-free shelf.
It's the first time that an Aqua Allegoria comes with the frosted bottle design, known from Les Eaux de Rituel. Unlike last year's travel edition though, the honeycomb mesh has not been removed. As this year's costly Muguet edition also features the frosted Aqua Allegoria bottle, it feels like rather bad timing to use it for a tax-free scent (64 €). At least Guerlain could have waited a couple of years to do so, or, better yet, found a more appropriate bottle for Muguet. Read more about Aqua Allegoria
Just six months after its previous addition to the L'Art & la Matière line, Néroli Outrenoir, Guerlain launches the line's 11th member, called Joyeuse Tubéreuse.
The scent is officially co-authored by Thierry Wasser and Delphine Jelk, and it marks the first time that Jelk's name is mentioned on Guerlain's website, although her first creation for Guerlain was La Petite Robe Noire in 2009. Sylvaine Delacourte has already said that "no one has the monopoly" at Guerlain, but this is a new kind of transparency about who actually makes what in the Guerlain lab. Traditionally, only the appointed master perfumer has been stated as the creator of Guerlain’s fragrances. Since his entry as perfumer at Guerlain, Thierry Wasser has generally been pushing the brand towards greater openness about facts that are usually regarded as trade secrets within the fragrance industry, not least those concerning reformulations and changes in raw materials. Read review
Bergamote Calabria or Gingembre Arancia?
Considering that Guerlain’s Aqua Allegorias are promoted as "the Collection of Fresh Fragrances," it’s quite remarkable that we had to wait almost twenty years to get one named after bergamot, perfumery’s most widely used fresh note and even featured in the list of Guerlinade ingredients. Maybe one reason is that bergamot is not what it used to be. Thierry Wasser has explained that while raw bergamot oil smells heavenly, deep, complex and rounded, almost like a perfume in itself, it can cause allergies when exposed to sunlight and therefore has been substituted with a “cleansed” product that smells somewhat flat and lifeless in comparison. According to Wasser, the absence of raw bergamot oil is one of the main reasons why modern Shalimar is so different from the vintage version. Read fragrance review of Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria
Guerlain discontinues most of its bath products
Guerlain has discontinued all feminine bath products except for the "unisex" Les Délices de Bain, La Petite Robe Noire, and Shalimar. Soon, Mon Guerlain will be added to the line.
Guerlain's bath products now come in a uniform plastic variant of the bee bottle, similar in shape to the first bath bee bottles from the early 1990s. The design of the new bath bottle is more streamlined though, with a smooth cap and without the Vendôme column's fish-scale pattern on the upper part of the bottle.
Guerlain: gossip or glory?
The latest issue of French gossip magazine Point de Vue features an article about Le Roman des Guerlain, historian and perfume expert Élisabeth de Feydeau's well-researched book about the Guerlain family history.
It's difficult to understand why Feydeau and her publisher chose a release date that coincides with Guerlain's revelation of Angelina Jolie as the brand's new spokeswoman. Feydeau's book is infinitely more interesting than any American celebrity or mainstream caramel fragrance ever was, and it's an awful shame that Feydeau's contribution to our understanding of the Guerlain history is now destined to drown in celebrity craze.
On a side note, the large image of Jean-Paul Guerlain isn't quite illustrative of Feydeau's book, which more or less ends with the death of Jacques Guerlain in 1963. Everything there is to say about the Jean-Paul Guerlain era is reduced into the ten page epilog, just three percent of the entire text. Did Feydeau run out of time? Or was she influenced by Jean-Paul Guerlain being persona non grata since his unfortunate racially denigrating remarks on French television in 2010 (a subject that coincidentally the book is silent about)? On the other hand, she doesn’t spare us the details about how much the sale of Guerlain to luxury conglomerate LVMH in 1994 ignited dissension within the family. Several members openly expressed that such a sale would be a betrayal of the brand’s history and founder. During the clearing of conference rooms and offices to make room for the new owners, Sylvie Guerlain found a large number of historic documents, and she decided that she would do everything she could to retrieve and preserve the vestiges of Guerlain's past. The book ends on a hopeful note, quoting Jean-Paul Guerlain’s wish that his young grandson, Paul Guerlain, will one day become Guerlain’s next master perfumer. Read book review
Guerlain devotes itself to women
We're informed that throughout 2017, Guerlain will devote itself to a special focus on women, starting with the announcement of Angelina Jolie as the brand's new spokeswoman. Angelina Jolie is an advocate of several causes, among them women's rights. In 2012, she launched an initiative against sexual violence.
Guerlain's announcement of the partnership with Jolie comes only a few days after the Women’s March, which was especially aimed at US President Donald Trump's statements regarded as anti-women. The march drew at least half a million in Washington, and some estimates put worldwide participation at 4.8 million.
Guerlain needs more brand awareness
Guerlain has revealed that its forthcoming international fragrance release for women, promoted by American superstar Angelina Jolie, is called Mon Guerlain. The main notes of Mon Guerlain are described as lavender, jasmine, sandalwood and vanilla. According to Guerlain boutique staff, the scent is practically identical to the recently discontinued Mon Exclusif.
Let’s be honest, it’s not the brand’s most sophisticated fragrance name ever, but it’s not stupid either, all things considered. First, the name is born out of a marketing strategy that promotes everything as being "mine", such as My Insolence, Mon Précieux Nectar, Ma Première Robe, Ma Robe Sous le Vent, Mon Habit Rouge Taillé sur Mesure, and Mon Exclusif. We imagine two little girls fighting over a bottle of perfume: “This is MY Guerlain!” — “No, it’s MINE!” — “No, it’s MINE!”. Soon you’ll be able to buy Mon Guerlain for 75 € at any airport in the world, but the name still has a certain ring of exclusivity to it.
Secondly, and joking aside, using Guerlain's brand name as part of the fragrance name is a clever way of increasing brand awareness, especially considering that world-famous Angelina Jolie is the face of the campaign. We imagine two colleagues talking: “You smell good! What are you wearing?” — “I’m wearing Mon Guerlain, the new fragrance by Angelina Jolie.” — “Wow! I need to get it too! How do you spell Guerlain?”
It’s no secret that Guerlain’s brand awareness is lagging catastrophically behind, especially outside of France. On its US and Russian Facebook pages, Guerlain’s weekly PTAT (People Talking About This) number is a mere 100 persons. With her six million followers on Instagram, Angelina Jolie will no doubt contribute immensely to Guerlain's popularity and brand awareness worldwide. Jolie’s statement that she's donating her entire modeling fee to charity only adds to the good press.
Le Roman des Guerlain: who actually made Jicky?
In a world with so much rampant marketing and capitalism, it’s a great pleasure to find the Guerlain story being told in a comprehensive and rigorous manner for the first time, by French historian and perfume expert Élisabeth de Feydeau. She calls her 360 page book "Le Roman des Guerlain" ("roman" is a novel in French), however it's by no means fiction, but based on family archives, mainly those collected and preserved by Sylvie Guerlain. Among many things, the book casts new light on who actually made Jicky, why Aimé Guerlain left no heirs, and how the perfume Kriss came into being. Read book review
Guerlain discontinues Mon Exclusif
While Guerlain is preparing a major international fragrance launch, called Mon Guerlain, the brand discontinues Mon Exclusif, only two years after its release. Mon Exclusif was promoted as a modern gourmand take on Jicky's classic fougère accord. However, except for the lavender, most fragrance reviewers saw no connection between Jicky and Mon Exclusif's sugary mix of butter caramel, patchouli and creamy-powdery floral notes, an accord that has been immensely popularized by Lancôme's La Vie Est Belle. Read more about Mon Exclusif
The 2017 limited edition bottle for La Petite Robe Noire
This year's limited edition bottle for La Petite Robe Noire EdP and EdT is a blackened bottle version with clear heart-shaped stopper, emblazoned with a red and pink "fashion show" label appropriated from the LPRN makeup line.
To add to the collectible value, fifteen different label designs have been produced which are all depicted on the back of each box. You won't know which of the fifteen you have purchased until you open your box!
The fragrances remain unchanged.
Un Dimanche à la Campagne
As if Guerlain hadn’t already spoiled us with enough fragrance releases this year (fourteen in the first ten months, three of which were reissued scents), out of the blue comes Un Dimanche à la Campagne (“a Sunday in the countryside”). It’s an Eau de Cologne, but doesn’t fit into Guerlain’s Eau Fraîche line, as it comes in the tall cylindrical bottle with the wooden cap first made for Cologne du 68 and later for Le 68 Cologne Fond de Cuve, instead of the classic bee atomizer.
The new scent is worked around orange blossom, an ingredient that seems to be quite fashionable these days. At Guerlain, orange blossom is now celebrated as one of the historic Guerlinade ingredients. Often described as a “marshmallow” note, yielding a sense of fresh-sweet, romantic purity, orange blossom is prominent in several Jacques Guerlain creations (notably Après l’Ondée, L’Heure Bleue, and Liu), but also in contemporary scents like Insolence, Mademoiselle Guerlain, L’Heure de Nuit, Le Bouquet de la Mariée, and Néroli Outrenoir.
Un Dimanche à la Campagne has a fresh, crunchy start of bergamot, green herbs and orange blossom, followed by a soft, clean, linear drydown of sweet woody-nutty notes and white musk. Very pleasant and gentle, the result reminds us of a mix of Thierry Wasser’s Cologne du Parfumeur and the discontinued Cologne du 68.
The ml price of Un Dimanche à la Campagne is significantly lower than that of the Eaux Fraîches, but 160 € still seems a bit expensive for a pleasant Sunday walk in the French countryside.
The truth about the Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue problem
Fragrance review site Auparfum has had the chance to speak with Thierry Wasser about the recent problems and changes in the compositions of Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue.
Thierry Wasser reveals that the problem was about a raw material called Iriséine, produced by Symrise. The scent of Iriséine is described as warm, woody, orris-like and heady, which gives depth and roundness to a composition. Symrise had to reformulate this material, because one of its suppliers stopped the production of a special kind of méthylionones. Unfortunately, the reformulation meant that Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue developed an unpleasant tar-like odour over time.
The affected batches were coded 5T, 5U etc. Towards the end of 2015, Guerlain chose to suspend the production and sale of Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue, while Thierry Wasser worked on a way to adjust their formulas without Iriséine.
Auparfum also provides reviews of Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue, comparing the bad batches with the new adjusted versions. The general conclusion is that both fragrances now appear lighter, fresher, and less robust and rounded, but that L'Heure Bleue fares slightly better in the drydown. Read all the details at Auparfum.com
Book about Sylvie Guerlain's bottle collection
A new Guerlain bottle book by perfume bottle expert Bernard Gangler showcases Sylvie Guerlain’s magnificent collection, as well as her insight into the Guerlain history. The book is not an encyclopedia like Michèle Atlas and Alain Monniot's “Guerlain bottle bible” from 1997, but it features some very rare and hitherto unseen designs.
Shown here is a one-off Baccarat crystal bottle sculpture for Vol de Nuit by Serge Mansau, created after the year 2000. The sculpture has a bottle of Vol de Nuit inside, as well as an airplane mounted on the top. See more
Fifteen Guerlain releases 2016
In step with the market's increasing interest in luxury, Guerlain's creative speed has accelerated considerably over the past two decades, from one perfume every four years to more than ten new releases annually. 2016 has seen the following fifteen Guerlain releases:
• Un Dimanche à la Campagne
• 4 Saisons: Le Printemps, L'Été, L'Automne, L'Hiver
• Néroli Outrenoir
• La Petite Robe Noire Intense
• L'Homme Idéal EdP
• Muguet (new version by Thierry Wasser)
• Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita
• Aqua Allegoria Rosa Pop
• Ambre Éternel
• Promenade des Anglais (an EdP reissue of Aqua Allegoria Figue-Iris)
• Le Bouquet de la Reine (reissue of Aqua Allegoria Jasminora)
• Le Bolshoï Prima Ballerina (reissue of Moscow)
See what has come, changed and disappeared at Guerlain since 2013
Has Guerlain lost touch?
Guerlain and LVMH keep on posting and tweeting about stuff that they know people can't afford (64,000 €). Guerlain's Les Quatre Saisons on LVMH's website
Guerlain's discontinuations 2016
Guerlain each year releases an impressive number of fragrances, resulting in the need to edit the catalogue. "The Guerlain history is made up of almost 800 olfactive creations, but unfortunately it is impossible to keep them all," explains Guerlain's customer service department.
In 2016, Guerlain has discontinued 11 fragrances: Muguet (the Jean-Paul Guerlain version), Cherry Blossom, Mayotte, Chamade EdP, L'Âme d'un Héros, Arsène Lupin Dandy, La Petite Robe Noire Couture, Idylle Parfum, Oriental Brûlant, Cologne du 68, and Habit Rouge Extrait. See what has come, changed and disappeared at Guerlain since 2013
Sylvaine Delacourte launches her own fragrance brand
Sylvaine Delacourte has launched her own fragrance brand, simply named Sylvaine Delacourte. She starts out with five fragrances centred around white musk, described as woody, fruity, clean, vegetal, and velvety. At the same time, she announces that she will only work as a consultant for Guerlain from now on, without being involved in fragrance development any more. Earlier this year, Jean-Paul Guerlain also revealed that he will launch his own fragrance brand, called My Exclusive Collection, in January 2017. See the website of Sylvaine Delacourte
"A small number of passionate and highly educated people"
"Make good products, never compromise on quality," founder of the Guerlain empire, Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain, once said. "As for the rest, stick to simple ideas and apply them scrupulously." That was in the nineteenth century. In 2016, fragrance marketing directors know that sticking to simple ideas won't make you rich and famous in an overloaded market, where everything is available to everyone. Keeping up a prestigious image takes other methods today than those prescribed by Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain.
In the latest issue of CosmétiqueMag, a professional journal devoted to the beauty industry, Guerlain’s marketing director Margerie Barbès Petit (pictured to the right) explains why the brand has begun to focus on luxurious packaging, limited editions, exclusive collections, and spectacular boutique decor, rather than what perfumery was all about in the golden days, namely olfactive creativity and quality.
"Among our customers there are of course a small number of passionate and highly educated people, but many are just looking for a rare perfume. These are the same who buy limited editions in fashion or design, and it reflects the current taste for personalization," she says.
According to CosmétiqueMag, the focus on exclusive packaging and limited editions is a very wise business strategy, because exclusive collections sell like hotcakes, despite little creative effort put into them, the absence of expensive ad campaigns, and a high sales price.
Luckily, the "small number of passionate and highly educated people" can still find such solid olfactive works as Mitsouko, L’Heure Bleue and Habit Rouge in the Guerlain catalogue. But we might as well get used to the fact that the form-over-substance philosophy is here to stay. See CosmétiqueMag
The Four Seasons: Too little or too much?
Guerlain has launched a quartet of new EdP fragrances called The Four Seasons, not to be confused with the brand's 2008 box set of the same name. The fragrances are housed in 490 ml Baccarat quadrilobe bottles, exquisitely decorated by haute couture designer Janaïna Milheiro with coloured feathers and pearls to evoke each of the four seasons. The price is haute couture too: 16,000 € per bottle.
As Luca Turin once pointed out, fragrance brands should refrain from releasing more than one perfume at a time, because customers tend to judge a fragrance collection as a whole, not the individual fragrances within the collection. Hence, one inferior fragrance can ruin the whole launch.
Moreover, our judgment of a product will always depend on its monetary cost. At 16,000 € per bottle we expect nothing short of olfactory bliss. We know very well that the actual formula cost in all cases is very low, but when fragrance brands use Baccarat crystal bottles and haute couture decorators to up the price, our expectations soar equally sky-high. Yet, paradoxically, when prices exceed a certain level of grotesqueness, and the number of copies is equally limited, we begin to wonder if the perfumes were really created to be opened and smelled, or only to be displayed somewhere in the Arabic Emirates. For that matter, Guerlain could have filled the bottles with coloured water, and no one would be the wiser, that is, if it weren’t for the fact that Maison Guerlain has testers to try.
I have smelled the new Four Seasons collection, and in this short review I try to ignore the fact that its price could buy you a very nice BMW that would surely rock your social status more than a set of embellished perfume bottles. Read fragrance review
Le Bolshoï Prima Ballerina
Guerlain's Le Bolshoï edition this year is called Prima Ballerina. The fragrance is a reissue of Randa Hammami's Moscow from the discontinued City series, known for its brisk accord of pine needles and tart fruit. 60 ml EdP, circa 380 €. Read more about Guerlain's Le Bolshoï
Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, and Doctor Wasser
The Parfum and EdP versions of Mitsouko and L’Heure Bleue are back, after being reformulated due to a problem with one of their shared ingredients.
When the suspension was announced, Guerlain explained that while olfactive variations from year to year in raw materials are normal, the lab had detected a change that was too radical to justify further sale of L'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko. As a consequence, the brand decided to suspend the production of these fragrances for several months, while Thierry Wasser "puts all his talent and passion into readjusting the formulas of L'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko.”
Thierry Wasser has taught us that suppliers of raw materials changing their products is just as frequent a reason to reformulate or discontinue a Guerlain fragrance as are IFRA restrictions. Most of Guerlain’s old formulas contain ingredients that can be difficult to obtain nowadays.
From the fact that Guerlain chose to downright suspend the fragrances for months, we can deduce three things: 1) the ingredient in question played a significant role in the compositions, 2) there exists no readily available substitute for this ingredient, i.e. it wasn’t a natural, 3) there's a limit to how much Guerlain wants to compromise on its olfactive patrimony. Read review
Guerlain corrects: Liu stays
Following two written confirmations from Guerlain's customer service and one oral confirmation from Maison Guerlain, Mr. G recently reported about a discontinuation of Liu from the Parisienne line.
Now, Guerlain's customer service has sent a correction, saying that its previous statement about Liu being discontinued was an error. The customer service apologizes for the confusion caused by this misinformation, which occurred simply because Liu has got a new product code after being transferred to the new packaging design of the Exclusives.
We're not fond of misinformation, but we love the fact that Liu stays.
Guerlain's big overhaul: 12 new fragrances, 11 discontinuations, 5 reissues, 8 bottle designs replaced
Guerlain each year releases an impressive number of fragrances, resulting in the need to edit the catalogue. "The Guerlain history is made up of almost 800 olfactive creations, but unfortunately it is impossible to keep them all," explains Guerlain's customer service department. In 2016, the brand's perfume range has undergone its biggest reorganisation ever, with 12 new fragrances, 11 discontinuations, 5 reissues, and 8 bottle designs replaced. See what has come, changed and disappeared at Guerlain since 2013
4 Seasons fragrance and art bottle collection
Guerlain is launching a highly exclusive "4 Seasons" collection of four new fragrances by Thierry Wasser, named after each season: Le Printemps (musky, green floral), L'Été (solar floral), L'Automne (fresh woody), and L'Hiver (green, woody musk). They come in 490 ml quadrilobe bottles, sumptuously decorated by Paris-based Brazilian textile and feather designer Janaïna Milheiro.
In 2008, Guerlain also presented a "4 Seasons" collection. However, only Brume d'Automne ("fall mist") was a new creation, while the other three scents were reissues of previous releases, and the fragrances came in a 35 ml size of the heart-shaped stopper bottle.
As we all know, high art comes with a price, reserved for only the most affluent collectors. These days, Guerlain’s “art bottles” usually come with a 5-digit price tag. The Milheiro bottles are 16,000 € each. Photos by moniqueledoledec on Instagram. Read fragrance review
The price that doubled in 10 years
Guerlain has just raised the price of its three remaining Parisien fragrances (Derby, Chamade Pour Homme, and Arsène Lupin Voyou) from 185 € to 210 €. The price increase is significantly higher than Guerlain's usual annual price increase, which is around 5 € on fragrances.
In 2006, a 125 ml Parisienne bottle of Derby (pictured left) was priced at 130 €. With the current price of 210 € for 100 ml, it means that the price of Derby has doubled in just ten years. By comparison, the consumer price index of France has risen 17 percent in the same period.
Exclusivity is now very exclusive.
Some images courtesy of guerlain.com
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