Jean-Paul Guerlain 2006, reissue 2010
Family: floral, woody
Notes: bergamot, litchi, Provence rose, pink pepper, aldehydes, orris, violet, sandalwood, white musk
Period: The haute cuisine years
Nuit d'Amour collection
One year after the celebratory Plus Que Jamais Guerlain, which was released concomitantly with the opening of Maison Guerlain in 2005, Jean-Paul Guerlain presented another one-off exclusive fragrance, called Nuit d'Amour. He is known to take inspiration for his olfactory compositions from numerous travels to faraway places, and he got the idea for this perfume during a hectic promotion tour to South America on which he found himself in the Argentinian capital Buenos Aires. While walking the streets of the city by night and visiting some of its tango clubs, he tried to envision his impressions as a perfume. "The tango, with its voluptuous touch, manifested itself in powdery trails; its undeniable sensuality would be flowery and its dark and fatal side interpreted by wood." He chose rose, his most favourite flower, not an oriental all-enveloping Nahéma rose, but a sweet and feverish Provence rose, underscored by prickling pink pepper and combined with powder from orris and a bit of brightening aldehydes. Litchi fruit added a tender blushing effect, and for the woody base he used sandalwood for its smoky and glowing quality.
Nuit d'Amour also owes its life to Gustav Klimt's famous portrait Lady with Hat and Feather Boa of a 1909 rosy-cheeked society redhead wrapped in fur costume and restrained eroticism. "I picture her as being slender, proud but fragile," said Jean-Paul Guerlain. "I imagined Nuit d'Amour to be delicate but intense, drawing inspiration from the elegant women at the turn of the last century." According to him, the keen rosy top note "suggests the emotion colouring the cheeks of the woman in the painting."
Being one of the first Guerlain fragrances to replace the Guerlinade's dark richness with white musk, appearing as a cottony sensation at the drydown, Nuit d'Amour smelled like midway between Jardins de Bagatelle's insistent floral sharpness and the romance of Idylle. Jean-Paul Guerlain didn't obtain wide acclaim for Nuit d'Amour, but the Eau de Parfum version was in 2010 reissued as a Parisienne, maybe to balance the preceding losses of Attrape Cœur and Philtre d'Amour.
Bottle. Nuit d'Amour was originally presented in a limited number of 500 ml Baccarat quadrilobe Parfum bottles and a smaller Eau de Parfum version, both featuring a Belle Époque collar of jet glass beads with a cameo medallion, a tribute to the Klimt painting. The scent now comes in the Parisienne bee bottle which for this release was dressed with a pink ribbon to support breast cancer awareness.
Reformulation. Nuit d'Amour didn't contain any controversial ingredients at the outset and hence didn't need any reworking to be reissued as a Parisienne.
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