Jean-Paul Guerlain 1999, reissue EdP 2005
Family: citrus, aromatic, chypre
Notes: lemon, bergamot, petitgrain, neroli, verbena, myrtle, jasmine, tonka bean, patchouli
Period: The searching years
Philtre d'Amour collection
A name like Philtre d'Amour ("love potion") for a perfume makes you think of one of Guerlain's big, sensual orientals. Yet this fragrance, created by Jean-Paul Guerlain as a limited edition, was anything but. Instead we found in it an example of the wonders Guerlain can make of citrus and aromatic notes. With Philtre d'Amour, a quite simple but no less alluring chypre-style composition, we were in the sunny, refreshing world of Eau de Guerlain, but here rather more floral, worked with a beautiful jasmine note. Most importantly, the use of myrtle, green and slightly camphoric, gave it its special and very sophisticated character. The bright citrus top was balanced by a tobacco-like sweetness of tonka bean as well as the earthy scent of patchouli, adding an innocent, natural charm of the hippie era. According to perfume expert Luca Turin, Philtre d'Amour would make "a great masculine."
To a certain extent, the citrus-jasmine-myrtle-patchouli accord even recalled Jacques Guerlain's much-admired 1934 perfume Sous le Vent, which may explain why so many Guerlain fans fell completely for Philtre d'Amour. Its uniqueness and refinement qualified it for entering the Parisienne line in 2005 as an EdP (the original was labelled as an EdT). Regrettably, it was taken out of production after 2009.
Bottle. Philtre d'Amour originally came in a bottle shaped like a magic potion flask festooned with the golden double G logo. The shape had an obvious phallic nature. The bottle didn't include a box, but was instead presented in a purple pouch. For the reissue edition, the Parisienne bee was used.
We love: that the Sous le Vent accord continues to be revisited
For the intellectual woman
When Eau de Guerlain feels too cool
Some images courtesy of guerlain.com
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