Jean-Paul Guerlain 2005, reissue 2007
[ply kə ʒamɛ gɛrlɛ̃]
Family: floral, ambery
Notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, neroli, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, orris, vanilla, tobacco, amber, tonka bean, vetiver
Flowers and tobacco
Period: The haute cuisine years
To commemorate the opening of Maison Guerlain after renovation, Jean-Paul Guerlain wanted to present a new perfume that was "more than ever Guerlain." He made Plus Que Jamais Guerlain, using the family name as an adjective. Such a label seemed to imply a "mission impossible" of uniting all past themes of the vast back catalogue but instead, Jean-Paul Guerlain wisely chose to simply gather his own most favourite ingredients, like ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, vanilla, tobacco and vetiver.
Paradoxically, it didn't smell like any other Guerlain, the first feminine from the house using a prominent tobacco note, although this together with amber, orris and vetiver gave it a slight autumnal resemblance to the powdery-woody Vol de Nuit. And Plus Que Jamais Guerlain was composed in the same grand 1930s style with subtle elegance and a serious expression. A symphonic, classic blend of luxurious flowers, with a touch of Jardins de Bagatelle's floral opulence albeit far more intimate, it had the at once rustling and creamy feel of silk, deep-voiced and smooth like a cigarette-smoking Marlene Dietrich.
Originally presented in a limited number of 500 ml Baccarat quadrilobe bottles as well as a 60 ml Eau de Parfum version, Plus Que Jamais Guerlain later joined the Parisiennes until it was finally discontinued in 2009.
The reissued EdP showed no signs of formula change.
We love: that Guerlain made it available again, if only for a short time
A luxurious tobacco feel
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