Jean-Paul Guerlain 2005, reissue 2007
[ply kə ʒamɛ gɛrlɛ̃]
Family: floral, ambery
Notes: aldehydes, lemon, bergamot, neroli, ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, orris, vanilla, tobacco, amber, tonka bean, vetiver
Flowers and tobacco
Period: The haute cuisine years
Plus Que Jamais Guerlain collection
To commemorate the opening of Maison Guerlain after renovation, Jean-Paul Guerlain wanted to present a new perfume that was "more than ever Guerlain." He made Plus Que Jamais Guerlain, using the family name as an adjective. Such a label seemed to imply a "mission impossible" of uniting all past themes of the vast back catalogue but instead, Jean-Paul Guerlain wisely chose to simply gather his own most favourite ingredients, like ylang-ylang, rose, jasmine, vanilla, tobacco and vetiver.
Paradoxically, it didn't smell like any other Guerlain, the first feminine from the house using a prominent tobacco note, although this together with amber, orris and vetiver gave it a slight autumnal resemblance to the powdery-woody Vol de Nuit. And Plus Que Jamais Guerlain was composed in the same grand 1930s style with subtle elegance and a serious expression. A symphonic, classic blend of luxurious flowers, with a touch of Jardins de Bagatelle's floral opulence albeit far more intimate, it had the at once rustling and creamy feel of silk, deep-voiced and smooth like a cigarette-smoking Marlene Dietrich.
Bottle. Originally presented in a limited number of 500 ml Baccarat quadrilobe bottles as well as a 60 ml Eau de Parfum version, Plus Que Jamais Guerlain later joined the Parisiennes until it was finally discontinued in 2009.
Reformulation. The reissued EdP showed no signs of formula change.
We love: that Guerlain made it available again, if only for a short time
A luxurious tobacco feel
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