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MY GUERLAIN TOP THREE 2015


As in previous years, in 2015 Guerlain has issued ten new fragrances. Monsieur Guerlain's readers have recently voted for their favourite Guerlain from this year, and here are my personal top three:

Habit Rouge Dress Code. None of the Habit Rouge flankers really appealed to me, but the 50th anniversary edition does! Dress Code retains the signature rose-leather accord of the original, at once aesthetic and tough, but turns it even more flamboyant by incorporating two modern trends in men's perfumery that seem to correspond well with the Habit Rouge scheme: the gourmand trend (praline and chocolate), and the super-woody trend (powerful woody and leathery aroma chemicals). In addition to that, we get a wonderful spice mix of ginger, coriander and nutmeg. It wouldn't be wrong to say that Dress Code is Habit Rouge with a bit of L’Homme Idéal stirred in, and that this pairing brings unexpected thrills to our nostrils.

Ne m'Oubliez Pas. You have to call Paris to order this one, as its availability is strictly limited to the Champs-Elysées boutique. With this new perfume, Guerlain presents a style that it hasn’t entered into before: the tropical fruity oriental. A Parfum concentration, Ne m’Oubliez Pas is one of Guerlain's most faceted and intriguing scents in the past few years. Smell it next to Mitsouko, and it will smell like honey and jam; try it against La Petite Robe Noire, and you’ll find it dry like a chypre. Guerlain aficionados will note that it has the liqueur-like richness of vintage Guerlain, with fruit, rose absolute, spices, leather, and amber, while customers with more contemporary tastes will find it sparkling and colourful. Men will like it for its spicy-woody character, featuring quite masculine notes of cumin, juniper and cedarwood.

La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche. Frankly, I'm a big fan of La Petite Robe Noire, which in my view attests that Guerlain is the master of the fruity-floral genre. The Eau Fraîche, nicknamed "Ma Robe Pétales", is an unusual creature, marrying the addictive signature praline note with a phenomenally salty-fresh and fizzy accord that makes the whole thing bubble. Ma Robe Pétales is certainly not one of those pale, softly aromatic and minimalistic fragrances that its light green coloured juice might make you think of. This is New Millennium Guerlain, a scent of metallic neon-green, pink petals, almond and licorice. In that sense, it’s very La Petite Robe Noire. The mix of green, creamy lily, praline and musk may be what Guerlain describes as "pistachio". Delicious it is.
(December 2015)


See readers' votes for best Guerlain fragrance 2015


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