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THIERRY WASSER’S MUGUET — SOMETHING NEW, SOMETHING OLD

Muguet 2016 is advertised not only with a new bottle design as it is every year, but also — for the first time since 1998 — with a whole new fragrance. It's available "en avant-première" to be tried and purchased at Maison Guerlain in Paris.

Until now, the varying Muguet bottles have all contained the same fragrance, originally signed by Jean-Paul Guerlain in 1998, but now Guerlain has released a new juice by Thierry Wasser. It's described as "a remarkably natural and modern interpretation," with green notes, dewy rose, and jasmine.

The new version is not strikingly different from the 1998 version; it still smells mainly of lily of the valley. However, the scent presents a few adjustments that deserve to be mentioned.

First of all, the top note is more tender and vegetal than the hissing citrus opening of Jean-Paul Guerlain’s version, with a passing resemblance to the green note in Thierry Wasser’s Cologne du Parfumeur. The powerful citrus note was typical of Jean-Paul Guerlain, who preferred a very bold expression full of contrast and vibrancy. In comparison, Wasser searches for a lighter touch with subtle nuances and fine details. One reason for the gentler — and, as Guerlain puts it, “natural and modern” — feel of Thierry Wasser’s Muguet might be that it omits the lilac, that clean, bright and intensely floral note that makes some people think of old ladies' perfumes and air fresheners.

Perhaps the most interesting difference is to be found in the drydown, which has a creamy, very comfortable, long-lasting note that goes hand-in-hand with the jasmine. Despite Guerlain’s description of 2016’s as a “modern interpretation”, Wasser’s Muguet actually smells closer to the historic Jacques Guerlain version of 1908, as one of the most characteristic features of Jacques Guerlain’s Muguet was that it smelled like Nivea cream. The creamy note was completely absent in Jean-Paul Guerlain’s purely floral Muguet fragrance.

A welcome update of Guerlain’s Muguet fragrance, this year’s edition gives collectors all the more reason to visit a Guerlain boutique on the 1st of May, the beautiful bottle notwithstanding. The bottle is identical in shape to the 2011 edition, a tall rectangular bottle, this time decorated with a silver filigree ornament of lilies of the valley.
(March 2016)


Read about the different Muguet bottle editions since 1998      See more Guerlain news


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