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THE 10TH ANNIVERSARY OF GUERLAIN’S CARAMEL ERA


Thierry Wasser’s first fragrances for Guerlain, Quand Vient la Pluie with a praline note and Iris Ganache with its white chocolate from 2007, marked the beginning of the caramel era at Guerlain. While a sweet vanillic touch has been a Guerlain hallmark since the 1880s, never before had the brand used the artificial sweetener and food-flavor enhancer ethyl maltol in any of its perfumes. Ethyl maltol in perfumery, often likened to the scent of caramel, first became known in 1992 with Mugler's now-iconic fragrance Angel.

When Wasser arrived as Guerlain’s house perfumer in 2008, Delphine Jelk had just completed the composition of La Petite Robe Noire, which was based on a note of burnt sugar. Since then, most of the Wasser-Jelk duo’s fragrances have included aroma chemicals that smell like caramel, praline, honey, amaretto, toffee, jam, macarons, sugared almonds, chocolate, cotton candy, or any other variation on the sugar theme.

We wonder if it’s time that Guerlain updated its definition of the Guerlinade to actually reflect what Guerlain smells like nowadays, and not what it did when Jacques Guerlain was around.
(July 2017)


Read about Iris Ganache


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