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EDP IS THE NEW EDT


Guerlain will soon release its eighth version of La Petite Robe Noire since 2012, called Eau de Parfum Légère ("légère" is French for light). Notes listed are the same as for Black Perfecto: cherry, rose, rose water, almond, and black tea.

The term "EdP Légère" was introduced by Lancôme for La Vie Est Belle in 2013 and has subsequently been used by other brands, like Nina Ricci, Lacoste, and Cartier. When the EdP format was originally introduced in the 1980s, it was actually anything but light. It was an intensified EdT to meet the times' taste for opulence and power. A light EdP therefore seems like a contradiction in terms, so why do brands now market it? Why not simply call it EdT? One of the answers to this is simple, albeit a bit technical: by labelling a fragrance as EdP, brands are able to circumvent the restrictions imposed by the IFRA on EdT.

While the IFRA standards restrict the use of most fragrance raw materials, for certain ingredients the permissible concentration limit is higher in EdP than in EdT. Fragrance firms are obliged by law to label their products as either EdC, EdT, EdP, or Parfum, but the criteria for doing so are not defined, hence brands are free to use the labels as they wish. Adding an adjective, like "EdP Légère", "EdP Florale", "EdP Intense", or "EdP Fraîche", doesn't change anything either — it's still just an EdP according to the law.

Photo by krasina.anna on Instagram.
(November 2017)


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