Jacques Guerlain 1912, EdC 1945, PdT 1987
[lœ:r blø]
Family: floral, oriental
Notes: anise, bergamot, orange blossom, heliotrope, tuberose, carnation, violet, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, tonka bean, orris, benzoin, vanilla, musk
Magnificent marshmallow
Period: The Belle Époque years

Descriptive of its alluring pastry scent, heliotrope is also called "cherry pie plant". Jacques Guerlain used the scent of this flower, beside violet and orris, in several of his early twentieth century perfumes, each a variation of the same powdery, confection theme. Of these, the innovative floral-oriental L'Heure Bleue from 1912, influenced by François Coty's spicy-sweet L'Origan as well as his own Après l'Ondée, has become a truly distinctive classic, created in tribute to the impressionist paintings its perfumer avidly collected. The name L'Heure Bleue (meaning "the blue hour") was a reference to the special hour at dusk on hushed, cloudless summer evenings when the light seems warmly blue and soft, the noise of the world is muted, and the smell of flowers reaches its peak.

The fragrance is particularly admired for being the olfactive equivalent of an impressionist painting, evoking a flickering, diffuse and emotionally charged sensation. According to the Guerlain annals, Jacques Guerlain wanted to capture the entrancing Parisian ambiance he found during his evening walks along the Seine. "I felt something so intense," he reportedly said, "I could only express it in a perfume." One sees why it became his wife Lily's lifelong signature scent. Composed two years before the outbreak of World War I, L'Heure Bleue also evokes the sweetness of a romantic prewar Paris, before darkness descended upon the city. To create this romantic feeling, Jacques Guerlain eagerly experimented with cutting-edge technology, all the modern synthetics that opened the perfumer's way to new levels of abstraction and depth, and L'Heure Bleue was the first Guerlain perfume, if not the first perfume altogether, to incorporate aldehydes, a subliminal amount to lift the natural notes.

Albeit much akin to Après l'Ondée in its soft-focus almond core, L'Heure Bleue was less bright, much more intense, and full of contrasts. If Après l'Ondée simulated a watercolour, then L'Heure Bleue was an oil on canvas with body and gloss. "Jacques Guerlain dosed musk and Bulgarian rose," Guerlain's 150th anniversary book said about L'Heure Bleue, "and tempered their accords, a bit too fiery, by the calmer beauty of orris and heliotrope to which he added the scent of humid earth." It had sweet flowers of narcotic and "nocturnal" natures, stretched out between the spicy medicinal glow of anise, carnation and orange blossom, and a musky balsamic plushness, reminiscent of hazelnut ganache and glove leather, that both enhanced Jicky's gourmand base and anticipated the sensual oriental accord of Shalimar. Smelled up close, it has the same delightful effect as Viennese pastries and an Indian spice market, marrying the honeyed sunniness of orange blossom with the aroma of baked sugar, almonds and clove. Smelled from a distance, L'Heure Bleue leaves a remarkable, agelessly glamorous trail by its wearer, at once very feminine and very forceful. The mix of orange blossom and vanilla, dubbed the "marshmallow accord" by Guerlain's former artistic director, Sylvaine Delacourte, is one of Guerlain's most addictive inventions.

Because L'Heure Bleue is so pronouncedly different from modern perfumes, with its musky rose and distinct orris note of lipstick, face powder and old books, it is today primarily celebrated as a nostalgic perfume, probably explaining why most people think it exudes melancholy. What Jacques Guerlain meant to express, though, was a sense of serene happiness, represented by the magical stillness of the twilight hour. Indeed, there was something arrestingly hypnotic and dreamy about L'Heure Bleue's floral tableau. Being one of Guerlain's crown jewels, L'Heure Bleue has inspired several contemporary fragrances like Insolence, Iris Ganache, Quand Vient la Pluie and Mon Précieux Nectar. The 100th anniversary of L'Heure Bleue in 2012 was celebrated with a reinterpretation by Thierry Wasser, named L'Heure de Nuit, a tender, airy EdP with notes of orange blossom, jasmine, and white musk.

As a historical footnote, Thierry Wasser recounts how Jacques, at the age of forty, was called to join the army to fight in the war. While serving he was wounded in the eye, and so returned home. Once back in Paris, he began to send small presents to the battlefront to heighten the morale of the French soldiers. These parcels contained warm clothes, canned food, and a bottle of L'Heure Bleue that should simulate a bit of female compassion in the dismal trenches.

L'Heure Bleue's bottle, called the heart-shaped stopper bottle, is one of Guerlain's most symbolic and enduring presentations. Influenced by the prominent Art Nouveau design movement which celebrated nature's sinuous forms, the bottle featured flowing lines and curvilinear shoulders. The stopper of the bottle was shaped like a heart, very suggestive of the Belle Époque's romanticism and optimism. As such, the bottle conveyed the angelic grace of the prewar times, even though it was reused for Mitsouko after the war. The perfume box had chinoiserie-style drawings of various farming motifs, like sowing, harvesting and fishing, portraying the artisan's love of nature's produce.

The spray version of the heart-shaped stopper bottle came out in 1995 and has since then been used for a number of different scents in limited editions. Unlike the quadrilobe bottle, however, the heart-shaped stopper bottle was never considered a standard bottle. Guerlain has given new life to the venerable L'Heure Bleue bottle as the bottle of La Petite Robe Noire (which, by the way, had its international debut exactly one hundred years after L'Heure Bleue).

Parfum, EdT, EdP
The most delicious, magnetizing creation ever to come out of the Guerlain patisserie, L'Heure Bleue Parfum's imprint on your soul deepens each time you wear it. It's infinitely spicy-sweet and caressing with the rich flowers evolving only slowly, sedately, and muffled by cushiony balsam and musk all along. The EdP is less velvety, with the carnation striking sooner and harder. The EdT is a study in the wonders of orange blossom, simultaneously candied and fresh.

Until recently, L'Heure Bleue had suffered surprisingly little from reformulation. Newer batches were not as rich, sparkling and rounded, but Thierry Wasser revealed that he would be doing improvements on several materials, notably bergamot and musk, aiming at a more enveloping feel that more closely resembles the original spirit of L'Heure Bleue.

By the end of 2015, the Parfum and EdP versions of Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue were suspended from production and sale, as Guerlain had encountered a problem with one of their shared ingredients. After being reformulated, the fragrances returned to shops in August 2016. When the suspension was announced, Guerlain explained that while olfactive variations from year to year in raw materials are normal, the lab had detected a change that was too radical to justify further sale of L'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko. As a consequence, the brand decided to suspend the production of these fragrances for several months, while Thierry Wasser "puts all his talent and passion into readjusting the formulas of L'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko."

Thierry Wasser has taught us that suppliers of raw materials changing their products is just as frequent a reason to reformulate or discontinue a Guerlain fragrance as are IFRA restrictions. Most of Guerlain's old formulas contain ingredients that can be difficult to obtain today. In an article at Auparfum, Thierry Wasser reveals that the problem was about a raw material called Iriséine, produced by Symrise. The scent of Iriséine is described as warm, woody, orris-like and heady, which gives depth and roundness to a composition. Symrise had to reformulate this material, because one of its suppliers stopped the production of a special kind of méthylionones. Unfortunately, the reformulation meant that Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue developed an unpleasant tar-like odour over time. The affected batches were coded 5T, 5U etc.

So what does the new L'Heure Bleue smell like? Straight from the bottle, you can't mistake this fragrance for anything but L'Heure Bleue, and maybe no one would have noticed anything being different if we hadn’t been notified. On the other hand, in perfumery, the devil is in the detail, where something does appear changed. The overall impression is of a brighter, lighter and softer fragrance, somewhat flatter and less diffusive, and with less density and power in the base. An unintended effect of the change may be that L'Heure Bleue, with its lighter feel, is now more palatable to the general public. Tastes have changed since Jacques Guerlain was around, and today only a small group of perfume aficionados prefer scents that are "dark", "smoky" or "vintage".

Thierry Wasser evidently did the best he could to save the integrity of these fragrances, and we're very grateful that Guerlain didn't choose the other alternative, namely to discontinue them altogether. Guerlain without L'Heure Bleue and Mitsouko, Jacques Guerlain's most classic of his classics, seems inconceivable.

  We love: an old bottle of Parfum, L'Heure Bleue matures wonderfully

  Worn with your most expensive clothes

  A gourmand's escapism

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