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Mon Guerlain Eau de Toilette
The third release in the Mon Guerlain series – the second one this year alone – is called Eau de Toilette, described as a fresher version with more citrus. For this version, the collar around the bottle neck has a silver colour.
(July 2018)



Soaps scented with the Guerlinade notes
Guerlain has sold soaps with various scents since the very beginning, marketed under the name "Sapoceti". The brand has now launched a collection of six soaps that are each scented with one of the Guerlinade notes: bergamot, rose, jasmine, orris, tonka bean, and vanilla. The Guerlinade had its first official mention with Héritage in 1992 as the nickname of the historical olfactive signature of the house. In recent years, Guerlain's communication about the Guerlinade has been rather inconsistent to say the least, but these handsomely packaged soaps smell so good that we can forgive Guerlain almost everything. Read about the Guerlinade
(July 2018)



Perfumes: The Guide 2018
The much-awaited update of the perfume guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez is now available as an e-book, featuring well over 1,000 new reviews. The book contains twenty new reviews of Guerlain fragrances, covering only a fraction of the overwhelming number of fragrances that Guerlain has released since the first edition of the perfume guide.

The (*****) shown below denotes the number of stars out of five given by the reviewers. None of the new Guerlains have received a five-star rating. According to Luca Turin, Mahora is no longer Guerlain's worst fragrance, as it has now been dethroned by Un Dimanche à la Campagne. It's interesting to note that except for Parfum du 68, all of the four-star Guerlains have been discontinued since the reviews were written.

The book contains one minor error: "Aqua Allegoria Néroli Outrenoir". The review seems to indicate that it's about Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca, and not the L'Art & la Matière fragrance, Néroli Outrenoir.

• Parfum du 68 (****)
• La Petite Robe Noire Couture (****)
• L'Homme Idéal Cologne (****)
• Ambre Éternel (****)
• Lui (***)
• Songe d'un Bois d'Été (***)
• Aqua Allegoria Bergamote Calabria (***)
• Aqua Allegoria Néroli Outrenoir (***) ??
• Joyeuse Tubéreuse (***)
• La Petite Robe Noire Black Perfecto (***)
• Aqua Allegoria Pera Granita (***)
• Aqua Allegoria Teazzurra (***)
• Mon Guerlain (**)
• La Petite Robe Noire Hippie Chic (**)
• Tonka Impériale (**)
• Aqua Allegoria Rosa Pop (**)
• Le Bouquet de la Mariée (*)
• Un Dimanche à la Campagne (*)
• Santal Royal (*)
• Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde (*)

Below, you'll find Luca Turin's review of Mon Guerlain, shared with kind permission of Turin and Sanchez.


(June 2018)



Guerlain 190 Ans
Guerlain is releasing a new fragrance to celebrate the 190th anniversary of the house. The scent is described as a floral amber composition with orange blossom. According to Guerlain boutique staff, the new scent will be available from September. Reportedly, the scent comes in three different formats:

• A Parfum version (called "double absolue") in an exquisite 900 ml Baccarat bottle sculpture priced at 150,000 €.
• The same Parfum version in a 30 ml Baccarat bottle priced at 30,000 €.
• An EdP version (called "absolue") in a 250 ml bee bottle priced at 1,100 €.

Read about Guerlain's 180th anniversary scent from 2008, which was made as a non-commercial perfume gift to loyal customers and people within the industry. Called 180 Ans de Créations, this scent also featured notes of amber and orange blossom.

Photo of the new anniversary fragrance by eau_du_coq on Instagram.
(June 2018)



Musc Noble
Musc Noble is the name of the fourth fragrance in Guerlain’s Absolus d’Orient series, and the brand’s seventh fragrance designed for the Middle East. Even though Ambre Éternel (2016) has been discontinued, almost one in five of Guerlain’s Exclusives is now inspired by Middle Eastern perfumery. Known for its loud, angular, heat-resistant scents of oud and spices, immersion in this field is a departure from the brand’s velvety vanilla signature. However, according to LVMH, a strong presence on the Middle Eastern luxury market is paramount. Read fragrance review
(June 2018)



The formula code: what does it mean?
Raiders of the Lost Scent is an excellent fragrance website which contains useful information about how to date older Guerlain perfume bottles. It recently received a letter from an anonymous ex-Guerlain employee, stating that since 2003 Guerlain’s boxes have featured a numerical code which makes it possible to track fragrance reformulations.

Monsieur Guerlain has now been able to obtain official confirmation from Guerlain headquarters that this code is indeed linked to the fragrance formula, and that changes to the code track "the evolution of our formulas in compliance with the regulations". The code is to be found just below the list of allergens printed on the back of Guerlain boxes, and Guerlain recently made the allergen list and formula code for each fragrance available on its website as well. Read more
(May 2018)



LPRN Black Perfecto EdT
Guerlain has issued an EdT version of last year's La Petite Robe Noire Black Perfecto EdP. The note description is identical to that of the EdP. The bottle features a retro "rock and roll rose tattoo" label design. This is the second LPRN flanker this year. See more
(May 2018)



Shalimar Souffle de Lumière
Guerlain’s most distinctive feature these days is probably not its fragrances, but the extraordinary willingness of its perfumer team to disclose the ins and outs of commercial perfumery. For example, they have told us the reason why the flanker industry has grown so pervasive (Thierry Wasser even calls it a "sickness"), namely that flankers serve to fulfill a production quota for "nouveautés" set by fragrance retail chains in exchange for a prominent display of a brand’s wares and ads. With this in mind, we can’t blame Guerlain that its five yearly flankers are not among its most labor-intensive products, but merely minor tweaks of previously released fragrances. Guerlain’s third installment in the Shalimar Souffle line is called Souffle de Lumière, which translates as "breath of light", reportedly because it’s "a luminous fragrance composed like an ode to light." Read review
(May 2018)



"Prestige" edition of Mon Guerlain
Guerlain has released a "Prestige" bottle edition of Mon Guerlain EdP, decorated with lavender purple amethysts and a gold plate shaped like the quadrilobe bottle's stopper. 100 ml at 560 €, or 1 litre at 9,500 €. See more
(April 2018)



Météorites Le Parfum
Guerlain promotes practically all of its fragrances as being part of a line, easily recognizable by a shared bottle design. Only Terracotta Le Parfum looked oddly alone with its little circular bottle like a hybrid of Guerlain’s old watch-shaped cologne bottle and Chanel’s Chance. Now it’s being joined by Météorites Le Parfum, inspired by Guerlain’s multi-coloured face powder pearls. Read review
(April 2018)



L'Homme Idéal L'Intense
Guerlain is refreshingly frank when stating that flankers are not born from a creative urge, but because retail chains will refuse to carry a brand if it doesn't deliver at least one new flanker for each of its pillar fragrances per year. Thierry Wasser even said that “the sickness of making flankers every five minutes is very upsetting.” Well, if it’s such a boring job to make flankers, then why should we bother reviewing them? I have therefore vowed not to spend more than an hour on texts about flankers. Read more
(April 2018)



Guerlain Parfumeur boutique in Munich
After Brussels, Shanghai, and Moscow, Guerlain has chosen Munich for the fourth Guerlain Parfumeur boutique outside of Paris. The new shop will open at Oberpollinger department store at the end of April. Guerlain's CEO since 2007, Laurent Boillot, has announced that the brand is working on a vast global expansion, opening up 100 new boutiques in major cities worldwide within the next ten years. Photo by one of the members of Honey Bees and Guerlainophiles
(April 2018)



Influencer marketing: Jeremy beats Jolie
Influencer marketing has expanded exponentially over the past two years, as the more traditional advertising channels such as television, print and desktop ads are becoming less impactful and profitable. Modern day consumers want authenticity and personal interaction, and they trust recommendations from a third party more often than a brand itself. In addition, working with a social media influencer is much cheaper for brands than creating an ad campaign. Read more
(April 2018)



Jean-Paul Guerlain's new fragrances have launched
The webshop of Jean-Paul Guerlain's new fragrance brand, My Exclusive Collection, is now open, offering four different perfumes that are all described as inspired by Jean-Paul Guerlain's personal experiences. The bottle design is identical to that of niche fragrance brand Dorin. See webshop
(April 2018)


See also




Influencer marketing on the rise
Influencer marketing has expanded exponentially over the past two years, as the more traditional advertising channels such as television, print and desktop ads are becoming less impactful and profitable. Being the internationally least well-known of the big mainstream fragrance brands, Guerlain of course follows this trend.

In 2016, Guerlain hired 26-year-old Chinese influencer and movie star Yang Yang to boost sales in China, and now the brand wants the 28-year-old German vlogger, model and entrepreneur known as Jeremy Fragrance to influence his more than 300.000 followers to buy some Guerlain instead of all that Dior and Chanel. Jeremy's frequent references to sex and dating in his fragrance reviews have proved very popular among his young fans.

Asked about how it feels to be the brand's first master perfumer from outside the Guerlain family, Wasser tells Jeremy that "the story is so strong that you're in a swirl, and that heritage is not that heavy to carry because you just surf on the wave." This is in contrast to Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain's original motto, "fame is fleeting, only reputation lasts," by which he meant that one should not rest on one's laurels. Photo from Jeremy Fragrance's Facebook page. Read more
(March 2018)



Angelina Jolie "trashed" the Coque d'Or bottle
According to Thierry Wasser, Angelina Jolie "trashed" the Coque d'Or bow tie bottle used for Mon Exclusif, which reportedly led to the design of the quadrilobe spray bottle for the Mon Guerlain release. Read more
(March 2018)



The Guerlinade was "composed by Jacques Guerlain in 1921," says Guerlain
To showcase Guerlain's 190 years of existence, the brand is releasing a series of videos throughout the year. Oddly, the second video, which is about raw materials and Guerlain's olfactive signature, claims that the Guerlinade accord was "composed by Jacques Guerlain in 1921". Guerlain experts agree that the Guerlinade can be traced back to when Aimé Guerlain created Jicky in 1889, and that Jacques Guerlain by all accounts was the first to entitle it.

With this video, Guerlain is saying that L'Heure Bleue, one of the brand's most iconic fragrances, does not include the Guerlinade. Who's the editor-in-chief at Guerlain? Watch video
(March 2018)



Thierry Wasser dissatisfied with Guerlain's way of handling anniversaries
Fragrantica interviewed Thierry Wasser while he was in Moscow to promote the new Guerlain Parfumeur boutique at TsUM department store. He explains how dissatisfied he was with the marketing team's decision not to celebrate the brand's many anniversaries in 2009, like Jicky (1889), Mitsouko (1919), Vetiver (1959), Chamade (1969), Nahéma (1979), Samsara (1989), and Aqua Allegoria (1999). That's why Mon Guerlain is being promoted as a tribute to women, because this motto sums up what Guerlain's 190th anniversary should be about, he says.

Thierry Wasser already revealed his criticism of Guerlain's marketing team in 2014 in an interview on Persolaise.com, but his comments were subsequently deleted. Read more
(March 2018)



Guerlain Parfumeur boutique in Moscow
LVMH has opened a Guerlain Parfumeur boutique at TSUM department store in Moscow. This is the third Guerlain Parfumeur boutique outside of Paris, after Brussels and Shanghai. Guerlain's CEO, Laurent Boillot, has announced that the brand is working on a vast global expansion, opening up 100 new boutiques in major cities worldwide within the next ten years. There's no news yet about an exclusive reissue for the Moscow boutique. Read about the reissued scents at Guerlain Parfumeur boutiques
(February 2018)



Aqua Allegoria Passiflora
I must admit I don't favour reviewing Aqua Allegorias, as these scents interest me just about as much as collecting stamps: the endless remixes of the same four notes (citrus, orange blossom, fruit, white musk) annoy me the same way muzak in elevators does. That said, Passiflora stands out as being the first aquatic Aqua Allegoria, with the weird accord of watermelon and seawater that we know from 1990's perfumery. Some perfume aficionados distinguish between aquatic fragrances (watermelon and breezy notes) and marine fragrances (salty seawater notes). Guerlain, on the other hand, does not make this distinction, as both L’Homme Idéal Sport and Passiflora are advertised as aquatic scents, although Sport leans towards watermelon, while in Passiflora, the salty, almost ashy umami note of seaweed is very pronounced. Read fragrance review
(February 2018)



LVMH will celebrate Guerlain's 190th anniversary during Les Journées Particulières
LVMH has announced its 4th edition of Les Journées Particulières, taking place on October 12, 13 and 14 this year. According to a recent LVMH newsletter, the event will include an "exceptional mise-en-scène" at Maison Guerlain to celebrate Guerlain's 190th anniversary. Read more
(February 2018)



Muguet 2018
Elle Russia shows us this year's edition of Guerlain's Muguet, a frosted version of the classic bee bottle which comes with a gilded inscription and a white faux flower adornment. Priced at 430 €. Photo by maria_taranenko_elle_russia on Instagram.
(February 2018)



Maison Guerlain's restaurant Le 68 closes
French chef Guy Martin has stopped his collaboration with Maison Guerlain, therefore the restaurant and tea room Le 68 is now closed. According to the boutique staff, Maison Guerlain plans to open an Asian restaurant instead.
(February 2018)



Retail chains are forcing brands to make flankers
According to Guerlain's perfumer, fragrance brands don't have a heartfelt desire to make flankers, but are forced by the retail business. He explains that retail chains will refuse to carry a brand if it doesn't deliver at least one new flanker per year, because stores require a constant flow of new products to attract customers. He also says that although perfume aficionados are often annoyed by flankers, the bottom line is that flankers work to increase a brand's market share. Read more
(February 2018)



Quadrilobe editions of Samsara, Champs-Elysées, and L'Instant de Guerlain
Guerlain's French webshop now carries the new quadrilobe editions of Samsara, Champs-Elysées, and L'Instant de Guerlain. Using the standard 30 ml quadrilobe bottle means reduced ml prices. You now save 20 percent per ml on Samsara and Champs-Elysées Parfums, and 40 percent on L’Instant de Guerlain Parfum. Read more

(February 2018)



Aqua Allegoria Passiflora
Guerlain's new Aqua Allegoria Passiflora is described as tropical and fresh, with notes of passion fruit, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, grapefruit, aquatic note, orange blossom, and ylang-ylang. Read more
(February 2018)



Chinese readers not happy with "clumsy Western commercial forays into China"
Guerlain's CEO, Laurent Boillot, wants to conquer China, and the brand marks the Chinese New Year with a red bee bottle engraved with the Chinese character Fú (福), which means "fortune" or "good luck". However, it doesn't make Chinese readers feel very lucky, as Chinese customers often perceive Western imitations of Chinese products as inauthentic and badly made. Photo by one of Monsieur Guerlain's readers. Read more
(February 2018)



LPRN Eau Fraîche discontinued
Just three years after its debut, Guerlain discontinues La Petite Robe Noire Eau Fraîche. Read about LPRN Eau Fraîche
(February 2018)



Guerlain reconfigures the Aqua Allegoria line
For the first time since 1999, this year Guerlain proposes not only five, but ten different Aqua Allegorias at the same time, namely Bergamote Calabria, Limon Verde, Herba Fresca, Mandarine Basilic, Pamplelune, Passiflora, Pera Granita, Nerolia Bianca, Rosa Rossa (a renamed reissue of Rosa Fizz, formerly Bouquet No.2), and Teazzurra.

Divided into four categories of freshness (citrus fresh, minty fresh, fruity fresh, and floral fresh), the presentation of the line has been changed as well, now described as "the freshness of an Eau Fraîche with the lasting power of an Eau de Parfum". It's surprising to find Mandarine Basilic marked as minty and Pamplelune placed in-between the minty and fruity categories. Photo by shaneela_rowah_al_qamar on Instagram. Read more
(February 2018)



Mon Guerlain EdP Florale
If brands wish to maintain the topical interest of a product in today's frantic market, they need to advertise it in the most cunning ways. In the fragrance industry, these ways are typically limited to hiring celebrities and launching flankers, although Guerlain claims to pursue a "disruptive" marketing trend. Hiring Angelina Jolie wasn't cheap, and with Mon Guerlain already being "so yesterday", Guerlain is forced to try to keep the output going by flogging Mon Guerlain Elixir, Mon Guerlain Intense, and then Mon Guerlain Crazy. Given what we've seen with the La Petite Robe Noire line, we can expect at least one new Mon Guerlain version per year over the next decade. The first one is called Mon Guerlain EdP Florale. Read fragrance review
(February 2018)



Angelina Jolie swamped by fans leaving Maison Guerlain
Angelina Jolie caused a commotion in front of Maison Guerlain as she came in and out of the shop during a recent visit to Paris. Reportedly, her presence in Paris was due to her filming for a new Mon Guerlain commercial.

"After five years without a celebrity face, we have surprised the luxury industry by choosing someone who has rejected to be the face of many houses before signing with Guerlain," the brand's CEO, Laurent Boillot, said at the launch of Mon Guerlain. This photo must be a dream come true for him. Read more
(February 2018)



Jean-Paul Guerlain's new fragrance brand
Jean-Paul Guerlain's new fragrance brand, My Exclusive Collection, a.k.a. MEC (which amusingly, if treated as an acronym, is French for "guy", "lad", or "bloke"), held another press event at Château de Versailles on January 20, showcasing some of the new fragrances. Confusingly, MEC uses the same packaging design as fragrance brand Dorin. According to MEC's website, a webshop will open shortly. See MEC's website
(January 2018)



Guerlain's 190th anniversary video
Guerlain has created a captivating video to showcase the brand's 190 years of existence.
(January 2018)



Will free press ever make it to Perfumeland?
Guerlain celebrates its 190th anniversary this year. According to a recent Guerlain press release, the fragrance Royal Extract, a Harrods exclusive, is "paying tribute to Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain’s fragrance 'Royal Extract of Flowers' which was created in 1828, the year of Guerlain’s creation." We're also told that "Royal Extract has been reimagined today by house perfumer Thierry Wasser."

We wonder if free press will ever make it to Perfumeland? No, Royal Extract is not inspired by an 1828 Guerlain perfume, but is a reissue of the fragrance Guet-Apens from 1999, which was renamed Attrape Cœur in 2005 and discontinued in 2009. And no, the fragrance was not created by Thierry Wasser, but by Mathilde Laurent, now the head perfumer at Cartier.

"As long as they credit Mathilde Laurent, they can call it 'Juan Perez' and say it was commissioned by Frederic II Hohenstaufen," Luca Turin wittily remarks. It's well known that advertising practitioners rank among the three least-trusted professions, along with car salespeople and politicians. But come on Guerlain, give us your honesty and high ethical standards! See press release
(January 2018)



Re-created vintage Guerlain perfumes displayed in Paris
On the occasion of Guerlain's 190th anniversary, Thierry Wasser's re-created historical Guerlain perfumes are now being displayed as a magnificent box set at Maison Guerlain and the place Vendôme boutique in Paris. The vintage versions of Eau de Cologne Impériale, Jicky Parfum, Shalimar Parfum, and Nahéma Parfum have been added to the original collection of 50 fragrances.

Sadly, these perfumes are not for sale, as they contain ingredients that don't meet the IFRA safety criteria, but ten of them can be smelled on-site from small diffusers. In addition, it's possible to book a 3-hour guided tour through the perfumes at Maison Guerlain's vintage workshop for 130 €. Read fragrance reviews
(January 2018)



La Petite Robe Noire EdP Légère
Guerlain's eighth variant of La Petite Robe Noire since 2012 is called Eau de Parfum Légère (légère is French for "light"). Like all the previous versions, it comes with a toe-curling nickname, this time "Ma Robe Hippie-Chic". Notes listed are the same as for the standard EdP (cherry, rose, almond, tonka bean and black tea), but in a lighter version. Reportedly, the Eau Fraîche version from 2015 is discontinued at the same time. Read more
(January 2018)



New Parisienne: Baiser de Russie
Guerlain has launched a new addition to its Parisienne line, reserved for reissues of discontinued scents. Called Baiser de Russie ("Russian kiss"), it's a renamed and recoloured reissue of Randa Hammami's fragrance Moscow, which was discontinued in 2014. See more
(January 2018)



Marketing causes perfume prices to rise 30 percent
The price of perfumes has risen thirty percent within the past few years. According to Guerlain's marketing director, Margerie Barbès Petit, this is mainly due to increasing marketing expenses. Guerlain is currently implementing a vast marketing plan aimed at making international customers more aware of the brand. See the story, which begins at 25m24s in this news program
(December 2017)



Guerlain's "Roots and Wings" development plan
The Guerlain Parfumeur boutique concept has now entered travel retail, with a new pop-up boutique at Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris. Guerlain's CEO, Laurent Boillot, explains that the brand plans to open a minimum of ten new Guerlain Parfumeur boutiques per year over the next five years. "For sure airports will be part of the plan," he says.

"Travel retail is key to our growth because we are not just talking about local, but global customers, so it is an effective way to internationalise Guerlain," says Guerlain's travel retail director, Aline Valantin.

As part of this so-called "roots and wings" development plan, there will also be plenty of new Guerlain launches in 2018, which marks the brand's 190th anniversary. "Consumers today are keen on novelties – something disruptive – but also with storytelling, authenticity and heritage," says Guerlain's marketing director, Margerie Barbès Petit. Read more
(December 2017)



Lunch with Thierry Wasser in Paris
You can buy a private lunch meeting with Guerlain's Thierry Wasser and at the same time support a good cause. Charitybuzz is an internet company that raises funds for nonprofit organizations through online charity auctions with celebrities and brands. The lunch, which includes a meal and alcoholic beverages, but not accommodation or the flight ticket, was donated by Guerlain's CEO, Laurent Boillot. Bidding ends on December 7. See more
(November 2017)



Vendôme is already sold out of Iris Ganache
Just six weeks after the opening of the Guerlain Parfumeur boutique at place Vendôme in Paris, the shop is sold out of Iris Ganache. This fragrance, originally created by Thierry Wasser in 2007, was reissued specially for the opening of the Vendôme boutique. The Guerlain staff informs us that it's still not decided if more Iris Ganache will be produced in the future. Read more about reissued Guerlain fragrances
(November 2017)



Guerlain and China's cosmetics law
Due to China's regulations concerning the hygiene supervision over cosmetics, the new Guerlain Parfumeur boutique in Shanghai is not allowed to sell fragrances on tap. As a consequence, the coloured bee bottles are sold prefilled, and customers have only a limited choice of colours for each fragrance. The large urns on display contain coloured water.

This news was kindly shared by Chi Tang on Facebook.
(November 2017)



Honey Bees and Guerlainophiles
For everyone who is passionate or curious about Guerlain, I have created the closed Facebook group Honey Bees and Guerlainophiles. In this group, you will meet some of the most enthusiastic, knowing and attentive Guerlain lovers in the world, and find an explosion of information that is not available anywhere else on the vast internet. Join Honey Bees and Guerlainophiles
(November 2017)


Some images courtesy of guerlain.com


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