Guerlain is refreshingly frank when stating that flankers are not born from a creative urge, but because retail chains will refuse to carry a brand if it doesn't deliver at least one new flanker for each of its pillar fragrances per year. Thierry Wasser even said that “the sickness of making flankers every five minutes is very upsetting.” Well, if it’s such a boring job to make flankers, then why should we bother reviewing them? I have therefore vowed not to spend more than an hour on texts about flankers.

Here’s my take on Guerlain’s third flanker within the first three months of 2018, namely the fifth version of L’Homme Idéal, which is called "L’Intense": it smells much like the EdP version from 2016, i.e., a comfortable mix of mandarin, cardamom, cinnamon, rum, tonka bean, vanillic balsams, fruity rose, and sandalwood. The only difference is that it's freed from any "boisé sec" or oud molecules, and that the vanilla tincture is less wonderful.

A semi-powdery, sedate, and linear amber composition that feels a bit like a work in progress, L’Intense is the least intense (in the literal sense of the word) of the five L’Homme Idéal scents. In conclusion, I see L’Homme Idéal L’Intense, L’Homme Idéal EdP, Lui, and Ambre Éternel as variants of the same accord, which is not in itself blasphemy as many of Jacques Guerlain’s reportedly 400 scents were variants of each other too.

I have five minutes left to mention the bottle design, which expands the EdT version’s matte black paint on the outer sides to cover the entire bottle. It’s a simple, yet very handsome idea. The only downside is that matte black will look messy the minute you start touching it. Read more about L'Homme Idéal
(April 2018)

See more Guerlain news