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SHALIMAR SOUFFLE DE LUMIÈRE


Guerlain’s most distinctive feature these days is probably not its fragrances, but the extraordinary willingness of its perfumer team to disclose the ins and outs of commercial perfumery. For example, they have told us the reason why the flanker industry has grown so pervasive (Thierry Wasser even calls it a "sickness"), namely that flankers serve to fulfill a production quota for "nouveautés" set by fragrance retail chains in exchange for a prominent display of a brand’s wares and ads. With this in mind, we can’t blame Guerlain that its five yearly flankers are not among its most labor-intensive products, but merely minor tweaks of previously released fragrances.

Guerlain’s third installment in the Shalimar Souffle line is called Souffle de Lumière, which translates as "breath of light", reportedly because it’s "a luminous fragrance composed like an ode to light." It smells like the first Shalimar Souffle de Parfum (2014), minus the orange blossom but with more jasmine instead. It has a captivating fresh-fruity-floral top note of benzyl acetate, typical of jasmine compositions, which maybe could be described as "luminous". It’s funny to think that benzyl acetate is one of many odour compounds that is attractive to male orchid bees; Guerlain’s perfumer has explained that the Shalimar Souffle accord is meant to evoke the scent of a fresh vanilla orchid.

To accentuate the theme of light and jasmine, the bottle for Souffle de Lumière is white but retains its classic blue lid. Read about Shalimar
(May 2018)


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